Hi! I mean YOU – out there with your road maps all over the
nation seeking the destinations of the Gas Engine Reunions — I
know you’re having fun, increasing your knowledge and making
new friendships. Hope you continue to have an enjoyable summer and
let me tell you — I kinda think this ‘kind of fun’ is here
to stay for awhile as we keep hearing of new organizations all the
time. They are springing up all over the place.
AND – to you folks who organize and run these reunions a word
I’d like to give you – Please get your show reports in when
your Reunion is over — seems so many wait until right before the
next year’s show to send in the last year’s report. It
would be nicer to have a couple reports in each magazine than to
try and get them all in a year from now.
Yes, I know some of you are complaining about not getting your
May-June magazines — remember last issue when I asked you to bear
with us in this transitional period of changing home offices?–
Well, this is just one of those things that happen when a business
changes hands — so, c’mon give us a little more time, O.K.?
We’re really trying to keep all our family happy — it will be
worth it, if you can overlook some of our ‘boo-boos’.
BASIL AMOS, Route 1, Russellville, Missouri 65074 writes us:
‘Last fall I ran a small sale ad in your magazine and as a
result I sold 11 engines and had inquiries from as far as South
Carolina. (Thanks Basil, that’s good advertising for us).
‘I have noticed so many ads of people wanting ignitors. Why
not make them yourself? I made one for my 6 HP hopper-cooled Famous
and it looks and works as good as the original. I used no lathe or
milling machine, only hacksaw, electric drill and welder and other
small tools found around any small shop. Even wound the springs
from the coil spring inside a radiator base. Then, after making it,
I found — not far from home, a 6 HP parts engine, complete for
flywheels for $15.00.’ (Tough luck, Basil, but look what you
accomplished by not thinking you were going to come across the part
you wanted.)
KRIST D. KING, Route 5, Box 027, Wauseon, Ohio 43567 tells us:
‘I have in my possession an old Cushman gasoline engine. The
piston travels in an upright position. The model number is 68, 4 HP
and the engine number is 57978. I would greatly appreciate any help
you can give in locating information for this engine.’ (Pen
pals, get busy and help Krist.)
From NEIL R. ERICKSON, 2113 E. Wheeler Road, Midland, Michigan
48640 comes this request – ‘HELP! – I have a 12 HP Witte gas
engine, serial number 34961 and I need some advice. The engine is
set up ‘very tight’ and having a one piece, cast cylinder
block and head, I can’t remove the head to get to the front end
of the piston. I have tried unsuccessfully to press it forward with
a hydraulic jack. If I can get it free, I need advice as to how it
was fired -magneto or battery.
‘It has a bracket mounted on the left rear part of the base
that looks like it was for some kind of magneto. There is an arm of
flat metal with an oval hole, hanging on the left side of the
crankshaft (between the flywheels and bearing) with a spring
holding it back to advice on pin striping vehicles: the
bracket.
‘Can someone please advise on how to get the piston free and
also what kind of mag or firing mechanism was used?
‘I have both received and written a number of letters
resulting from inquiries in your ‘Smoke Rings’ column. I
enjoy the magazine and an very pleased with the friendly and
helpful cooperation of its readers — a grand family.’ (Thank
you – we think it is a nice family too.)
NORMAN A. THURSTON, Shaw Road, Windsor, Massachusetts 01270
explains to us another item – ‘I own a Jaeger cement mixer,
Model 3-1/2 T, Serial Number 54299 with a Jaeger engine, 2 HP – 600
rpm – No. 372562 with a make and break ignition. My son (13 years
old) recently purchased a Hardie Farm Sprayer with a Novo upright
engine, Model I U – 3-3/8 x 4, No. 25776, Pump No. ST 159 and
approximately a 200 gallon cyprus tank which he is starting to
restore.
‘I would greatly appreciate any information you or your
readers could give me on either engine or units.’
A thoughtful letter from WALT TOWNSEND, R.R. 3, Nashville,
Illinois 62263 in which he transmits this idea -‘I have been
corresponding with a man from England concerning early gas
tractors. It seems that he is preparing a set of slides on early
tractors so that he can make talks to groups. His name and address
is John S. Hirons, 98 Hailey Road, Witney, OX85HQ, Oxon,
England.
‘John offered to pay for slides, but I feel that it would be
worth the small amount a slide costs to know that it was being
shown to collectors on the other side of the world. So, how about
some readers sending John some slides of early tractors, especially
the larger ones, along with whatever history you know? (Sounds like
a good thought -I’ll bet he would certainly appreciate it and
you fellows could be showing your good neighbor policy right across
the sea.)
Information needed for EDWARD L. FLEMING, 1027 Meadowbrook Road,
Iola, Kansas 66749 as he sent this note: ‘I have a Cushman
Model C, 4 HP, No. 2904. I would appreciate any and all information
on this engine, I would like to know how to pour babbitt bearings,
also type of ignition and color.
‘In your fine G.E.M. I would like to see such articles as
how to loosen rusty parts, remove rust, pour babbitt bearings, etc.
Keep up the fine work and thank you.’
Some advice comes from LEWIS H. CLINE, 603 Fremont Street,
Middleville, Michigan 49333 –
Pictured are two tractors I built in half-size scale. The top is
a Rumely Oilpull which I built this last year, six months was full
time work as I was off my regular work. The International I built
two years ago and it took me about seven months full time. I am a
gas and steam fan and would like to build a 1/2 size Aultman &
Taylor nest.
‘In past years I’ve noticed installations of engines
with hit and miss governing where the exhaust was discharged near
the ground, some directly at it. This is very bad, following the
violent discharge of the exhaust the engine makes quite a number of
revolutions with the exhaust valve open, inhaling and exhaling the
dirt which was stirred up by the exhaust. I recall an instance
where a neighbor connected a hose to the exhaust of his engine
which was mounted on trucks and used it to smoke out woodchucks,
never giving a throught to it inhaling dirt through the exhaust
hose. There was no manufacturer who equipped his later hit and miss
engines with an oil bath air cleaner at the carburetor. No matter
how good that air cleaner was, under the existing conditions, it
could afford very little protection to the engine. The way some
engines were installed with exhaust piped outdoors, the piping had
become practically welded together, and it was necessary to use a
hacksaw to remove the cylinder head for a valve job. A bit of
graphite mixed with oil and applied to the threads of the piping
and tightening it only moderately would have made it much easier to
dismantle.
‘ JAMES A. WEIN, Route 1, Hersey, Michigan 49639 recently
purchased a 10-20 McCormick-Deering tractor and he would appreciate
hearing from other owners of these tractors, especially on service
of them. He also recently purchased a Maytag 1 cylinder and he
would like some help on that engine. James says he would help with
information on I.H. F-20’s and F-12/14’s.
RAY PICHEL, R. D. 1, Hellertown, Pennsylvania 18055 asks:
‘Would someone please settle this problem for me? I have a
Stickney, about 1 HP which is not supposed to exist. The flywheels
are 16′ in diameter, bore about 3-1/2′ x 4’. The
overall width is 16′, length 24′ and about 30′ high. It
is a horizontal engine. Would anyone have proof of my contention?
(1 do hope you get some answers, Ray).
A nice newsy letter from BERNARD A. HINES, 7197 Mississippi
Street, Merrillville, Indiana 46410 follows: ‘Anna Mae — In
conversation with Earl Uban of Valparaiso, Indiana, the question of
the chronology of relative time of manufacture of Titan, Mogul and
Famous engines arose.
We hope some of your readers may know and offer some data on
this -which came when?
Earl and I both subscribe to and could not do without G.E.M. I
collect a variety of memorabilia including gas engines and models
of steam and gas.
Don’t shoot me for this non-gas engine question, but can
anyone tell me why a 1917 Edison upright floor model Edison
Phonograph would have a No. 6 dry cell therein, which is connected
to the reproducer with a piece of extra flex wire?
Is there an owner of a Z cylinder Anderson gas engine among our
readers who could give me a little history on this type engine?
(Questions to answer, Guys).
WILLIS G. STEWART, Box 248, Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
mailed us this informative letter with advice on pin stripping
vehicles:
‘As a result of your printing a letter I wrote to you about
a year ago, wherein I mentioned that I had developed an easy way to
stripe old restored engines, I had so many inquiries about the
method, that I thought it might prove of interest to all of your
readers. Briefly, the procedure was worked out using plastic self
stick pin-striping tape for customizing cars, manufactured by
Wallfrin Industries, Inc., 1535 Hart Place, Brooklyn, N.Y. 11224,
and available thru Auto Accessory Stores, and in the automotive
department of many discount stores.
Available in red, white and black, so far as I know, but if you
want Gold as I did, stretch out several lengths on a piece of glass
or smooth plastic, and spray with the type of gold plastic paint
used to spray Xmas decorations and styrafoam. Use several light
coats, and after thoroughly dry, cover with a couple of finish
coats of Krylon Plastic Spray, either gloss or semi-gloss as you
prefer. Spray lightly at first, as too heavy a coat may cause the
gold to streak and run.
This shows what can happen to a manure spreader, a corn
elevator, a model T gas tank and a Fairbanks-Morse gas engine when
the right young man takes over.
Now if you can use a razor blade to cut the lengths you require,
peel off the glass, and press in place on your engine Be sure
engine is clean and dry to get good adhesion. Gentle curves are
possible as the vinyl tape will stretch and flex easily, and
straight lines are a cinch. I would suggest a final coat of Krylon
Spray after the striping is all in place for additional
protection.
The narrowest tape I found was 1/8′, but this can be slit to
narrower widths with a razor and straight edge after stretching on
the glass for spraying, before the paint is applied.’
GORDON STROVEN, 14038 68th Avenue, Coopersville, Michigan 49404
would appreciate hearing from anyone that knows about the Euclid
Electric & Mfg. Co., Euclid, Ohio – type R.A., serial number
690C maximum horsepower missing. I know where this machine is but I
don’t know anything about it.
I’d like to mention here that many of the gas engine
organizations have little papers or magazinettes of their own they
publish for the members. From time to time some of you folks send
them along to us. We appreciate this and sometimes can use some of
the information and pass it on in our magazines.
This month I received Volume 1, Number 1 of Smoke and Fumes from
the Pioneer Steam and Gas Engine Society of Northwestern
Pennsylvania and I’d like to pass something on to you from
their volume. There was a write-up on the forming of these
organizations and how many times we do not stop to consider all
that is involved. And the way to get these Organizations underway
and make them grow was this: ‘Each member must throw his bundle
into the thresher so we can harvest the most from the combined
efforts of the ones who want to see a little bit of the good old
days preserved and enjoyed by this and future generations.’ (I
don’t know about you, but I liked the way that was
written.)
My double flywheel IA Fairbanks-Morse ‘Eclipse’ pump
engine. I have seen one other double flywheel Eclipse, and some
pictures, but they had a different base.
It was complete, even to the original coil box and only needed
painting. Has two ring pistons and starts and runs very well.
It is setting on one of two mill stones from an old grist mill
operated on our farm, by my Great-grandfather, before the Civil
War, well over a century ago.
Another interesting item in that paper was that a Mr. Kinny in
Southern Ohio has in daily operation, a 15 HP Reid, a 15 HP Patten,
a 15 HP Bessemer and a 15 HP Abel which was made in Titusville,
Pennsylvania. These engines are used to pump oil wells with Reid
double eccentric powers.
ROSS CALDER, R. R. 1, Cambridge (Preston), Ontario, N3H 4R6 sent
me the May issue of the Boiler Bulletin, the news leaflet sent out
by the Ontario Steam & Antique Preservers Association. Thanks,
Ross and look for your story of your trip to ‘Flawda’ in
our publication.
And now it is time for me to get on with other things and end my
chatting with you – but I’ve enjoyed it – hope you have! In
closing, think about this: A man’s character and his garden
both reflect the amount of weeding that was done during the growing
season.’ AND ‘Happiness is like a kiss – you must share it
to have it’.
A Sherman-Smith engine owned by Henry Mattison, New Bloomfield,
Missouri, is pictured above – a 4 HP. It was found on a farm near
Brazito, Missouri and purchased for $10.00, three years ago. It
failed to get a bid at a farm sale. It was made by Sherman-Smith
Company, Stanley, Iowa. In business from 1908-09 until 1912 when
purchased by Associated and Sons.
Clay Wymore of Oskaloosa, Iowa has one, a 4 HP, and that, until
he saw this picture, was the only 4 HP.
It is headless, ignitor is on left side, muffler on right and it
is a very good running engine.
