Hello again everyone. The other day a friend of mine asked me
about using an o-ring instead of piston rings in a scale engine. I
love the idea, and I use o-rings in most of the models I build.
Further, sometimes I install a cast ring in the ring groove
below the o-ring. After the engine is broken in I’ll pull the
o-ring and install another cast ring, which gives it great
compression.
The o-ring method will give you some piston slap as you are
running only one ‘ring,’ and it is at the top of the
piston. In my experience this hasn’t caused any problems.
If you want to run an o-ring, here is the way I do it. First,
fit the piston close to your bore size -just so it passes smoothly
through the bore. Next, cut the groove you normally would for a
regular cast ring. I have found that each o-ring needs a custom fit
as they come in many different sizes, both in diameter and
thickness. With the o-ring installed, you want the piston to fit
snug in the bore since the o-ring will expand some.
Now, I know some of you are thinking an o-ring won’t last
for long, and you’re right. The engines I have built (and those
of some friends’) with o-rings will generally run for about 100
hours before the o-ring fails. If you think about it, that’s
some serious running time over the course of a season.
One benefit of using an o-ring is you don’t need a great
hone job to seat the rings, as a smooth bore works best with an
o-ring. Have you ever looked at the inside of a hydraulic ram? They
have almost a polished surface.
Another great benefit of using an o-ring is you only need a
small amount of oil to lubricate the cylinder. This helps to keep
the spark plug from fouling out, and it also helps keep the model
clean while running.
Of late, I have been using different oils in my sight oilers
just for appearance. Ever try Marvel Mystery oil or transmission
fluid (red in color)? Maybe chain saw oil (green in color) or even
baby oil (clear)? I leave the oilers shut off, but looking as if
they are open. I only let a very small amount of oil feed to the
piston.
I’ve even tried using WD-40 in the oiler of one engine, just
letting it slowly drip. The engine ran fine and – it seemed to me –
perhaps even a little smoother.
These tips are for your thoughts only, and your fuel lines may
vary. – Rusty Hopper
Have a tip you think other model makers should know? Send it to
Rusty Hopper care of Gas Engine Magazine, 1503 S.W. 42nd St.,
Topeka, KS 66609-1265, or e-mail: rustyhopper@hotmail.com
Reader’s Scale Engines
L. Gardner & Sons Scale
This is a half-scale L. Gardner & Sons No. 0 gas engine. The
casting came from Alyn Foundry in England. The specifics are:
| Bore: | 1-3/8 inch |
| Stroke: | 2-inch |
| Ignition: | hot tube |
| Flywheel: | 9-1/2 inch |
| Weight: | 18 kg (39 lbs.) |
This engine was first introduced in the mid-1890s and remained
virtually unchanged for almost a quarter of a century. The name
Gardner is famous the world over. Robert Brandie 157 Don St.,
Bendigo, Victoria, 3550 Australia, remy46@bigpond.com
Corliss Steam Scale
My engine is a 1/20-scale model of a 100 HP Corliss steam engine
(sorry, it’s not gas) that was used in a cotton mill here in
central Texas.
The full-size engine is in good shape and was an excellent
specimen to measure. I’ve worked on the scale for about two
years making molds for the lost wax castings. The prototype is
bronze, and I’m currently working on building one in iron.
I learned so much about building engines with this project that
I don’t know where to begin when it comes to offering tips.
Perhaps Rusty could offer some suggestions.
I love GEM, keep it up! Maury Uebelhor
maurysneon@jump.net
