After enjoying a very nice Christmas Holiday, along comes
January 7, our customary deadline for this month’s column. Even
after writing this column for quite a few years, the 7th day of the
month seems to come up very quickly, and quite unannounced that is,
unless we miss our deadline and get a pleading call from the home
office at Lancaster. We must confess that one month last fall, the
7th came and went without our even thinking about it. In order to
keep things on schedule with mechanicals, printing, and mailing,
that required us to get busy and burn the midnight oil. However, we
admit that we enjoy putting all your mail in a stack and then going
through each letter. Hopefully, we can continue for some time to
come with this forum.
As a reminder to older subscribers and as a bit of information
for the newer ones, this column is intended solely as an
informational forum. We don’t have all the answers to your
questions, and the truth is that even after 25 years of study, plus
30-some books on engines and tractors, we are continually amazed at
the new discoveries and new information that appears. Many times we
call upon other readers for answers, and in the vast majority of
the questions, someone has some data or some. answers.
A new subscriber recently wrote us asking how to go about lining
up the belt for a small engine to another machine, such as a corn
sheller. At first we were taken aback, since this writer has been
doing this sort of thing from a kid onward. In fact, it was with
considerable pride that we could unhook from the threshing machine,
make a loop with the tractor, and be lined up the first shot. That
bit of nearly useless information aside, we thought about the
letter we received, and it dawned on us that lots of people of our
time were never around this equipment, never operated it, and
perhaps never saw any of it until becoming interested in our hobby.
Then we started to put our thoughts on paper, and we found it
challenging to pass along something that we’ve always taken for
granted. Here’s our stab at it:
In aligning anything, it’s a given that the two
shafts, that of the engine and that of the driven machine have to
be parallel. We always called this ‘squaring up’ or
‘lining up.’ With a good eye and a bit of experience,
it’s relatively easy to roll out the drivebelt square to the
driven machine. Then all that’s necessary is to square up the
engine or tractor to the drivebelt. If the belt is running in or
out on the drive pulley, shifting the front end of the machine one
way or another usually will suffice. Of course it is essential that
the driven machine be staked down so that it can’t shift or
move. This usually doesn’t require a whole lot, especially on a
small corn sheller or feed grinder.
With a tractor, backing into the belt, getting it tight, and
setting the brake is all that’s required. Steam engines and a
few tractors require someone to drop a block in front of the pulley
side drive-wheel when the belt is tight. Gas engines, especially
the larger ones, are a bit different.
For small engines, driving a stake and using a small cable
comealong to tighten the belt is probably the easiest way. It will
still be necessary to drive a stake or two alongside the truck
wheels to keep the engine from shifting out of position.
Belts are becoming increasingly scarce. Seldom does one find any
decent leather belting, and if so, it is usually quite expensive.
Canvas belting was once very popular, but not particularly durable.
Rubber belting is the most common, and even this is becoming hard
to find, especially in any length without a lot of splices. For
most collectors the need to have a rather expensive belt lacer and
a supply of Clipper belt hooks is probably best served by having
someone with this equipment to do the job. It’s usually not a
major problem to find a collector having a belt lacer and know-how
to use it.
Prior to the much superior belt hooks, leather belts were
spliced endless and glued at the joint, or a laced joint was used.
There were several methods for lacing, depending on circumstances.
All required the careful use of a belt punch or a belt awl to
pierce the two ends in a specific pattern. The lace leather was
then drawn through the holes in a specific manner and this resulted
in a strong joint, although it was a bit bumpy, especially going
over small pulleys.
Our first question this month is:
32/3/1 Witte Engine Q. I have a Witte 12 HP
engine, s/n 90507, and would like to know when it was built, the
correct color scheme, and the number built. Tony von Isser, 6680 N.
Alvrnon Way Tucson, AZ 85718
A. Your engine was built in June 1930. We have
DuPont 5204 Forest Green listed as a comparable color match; we
don’t know how many were made.
32/3/2 An Old Tool Q. See the photo of an old
tool we found, but we have no idea what it is. Can anyone help?
Harry Butler, PO Box 2010, Chino Valley, AZ 86323.
32/3/3 Simplicity Engine Q. I have a Simplicity
engine with no identification other than the name being cast into
the hopper and the s/n of 07670 stamped on the hopper. It has a 3
inch bore and 16 inch flywheels. The ignition system was stripped
and the ignitor was drilled for a spark plug. Any information on
the ignition system, the original color scheme, or other
information on this engine would be greatly appreciated. Bill
Dicker-son, 9687 SE 48th Ave., Runnells, IA 50237.
32/3/4 David Bradley Tractor Q. What are the
correct colors for the David Bradley garden tractor? LaVerne Meyer,
6122 S. 230 E., Rensselaer, IN 47978.
A. They are DuPont Signal Green 43073 and Red,
DuPont N1488 or 72155.
32/3/5 Stover Engine Q. I have a 3 HP Stover
engine with a frozen piston. Do you have hints on freeing it up,
and other necessary work before reassembling? Are there any
handbooks on rebuilding these engines? Any information would be
appreciated. Jim Wilhelmson, PO Box 80216, Goleta, CA 93118.
A. It all depends on how badly the piston is
stuck. Many times, by standing the engine on end and keeping the
piston and cylinder anointed with penetrating oil, kerosene, or
even brake fluid, enough will soak past the piston so that it can
be driven out. Use a wooden block nearly as big as the cylinder
hole for a driver, or put a heavy metal plate over the piston head.
Don’t pound or press on the piston head. For pistons badly
stuck, we’ve seen and heard of all kinds of ways to get them
free, and in fact, we’ve tried a few. Usually it involves
heating the outside of the cylinder so it will expand a few
thousandths and relieve its vise-like grip on the piston.
32/3/6 Unidentified Marine Engine Q. See the
photos of what appears to be a marine engine. Usually though,
marine engines have at least some brass; this has none. The carb is
missing and there is no apparent governing linkage to control the
speed. It has also been suggested that this might be some sort of
Any information would be appreciated. Dale Boss, 7195 Colon?
Rd., La Mesa, CA 91941-4565.
32/3/7 Detroit Stationary & MarineQ.
See photos 7A and 7B of a Detroit stationary engine, 2HP, and built
in 1909. It has the familiar Detroit low pressure fuel injector
designed by Benjamin Middleditch. The nameplate reads: Detroit
Engine Works – Builders of Stationary Engines. In the book,
American Gas Engines, you note that Detroit likely also built
Photos 7C and 7D show a Detroit marine engine, with the plate
reading: Detroit Engine Works – Builders of Marine Engines. With
the exception of an identical ignition system, the engines are
otherwise quite dissimilar.
I have noticed that Middleditch must have lent the rights for
his fuel delivery system to quite a few manufacturers, notably
Bessemer, Detroit, Middleditch, and others.
The Detroit marine engine does not use this system. Instead, it
uses a Lunkenheimer mixer with an inlet valve limiter that would
act like a throttle does in a regular carburetor. There is no
provision for mounting the fuel injection system either, but like
the stationary, the marine lubricates the piston directly with an
Does anyone know when Detroit actually built their marine
Can anyone tell me the location of the s/n on the marine
engines? On the stationary, it is on the end of the crankshaft,
beneath the brass end cap.
Does anyone know the HP of the marine engine? I think it is
about 2 or 3 HP.
Does anyone else have a Detroit marine engine?
Please address responses to: Andrew K. Mackey, 26 Mott Place,
Rockaway, NJ 07866.
32/3/8 Kinkade Garden TractorQ. Could anyone tell me the correct color scheme
for my Kinkade, s/n 16055. I would also like to know when it was
built, or any other information. Paul Rothermel, 184 St Rt 44,
Hartville, OH 44632.
32/3/9 Unidentified Engine Q. See the photos of
an unidentified inverted engine. It has a 4 x 7 inch bore and
stroke, 30 inch flywheels, and engine height is 42 inches. It is
throttle governed. There is a single governor weight in the
flywheel. The carburetor and linkage is missing, and there are no
casting numbers on the engine. Any information would be
appreciated. Eugene DeCamp, 646 N Ocotillo St., Cottonwood, AZ
A. We can’t be sure from the photos, but
there’s a similarity to the Webster. However, we’re sure
that one or more of our readers can give a positive ID on this
32/3/10 Sandwich Engine Q. I have an 8 HP
Sandwich engine, it uses a Wico EK magneto, and has s/n F187l9. Can
anyone tell me when it was made? Edward Decker, HC60, Box 56M,
Pineville, MO 64856.
A. The Wico EK became popular in the early
1920s. Sandwich was taken over by New Idea in the early 1930s. That
narrows it down into at least a ten year period. Since gas engines
above 6 horsepower were in a rapid production decline by 1930, the
odds probably fall toward the mid-1920s for your engine. However,
there are no s/n records for these engines, so there’s no way
to know for sure.
32/3/11 Fox Marine Engine Q. See the two photos
of a 14 HP Fox marine engine, made by Dean Mfg. Co., Newport,
Kentucky. Any information on this engine would be appreciated. Glen
Gerlach, 99 Simon-Miller Rd., Wheelers-burg, OH 45694. Can anyone
be of help?
32/3/12 Perkins Vertical Q. I have just
acquired a 1 HP Perkins vertical sideshaft engine. It was stored in
a barn for many years and rust has taken its toll on many of the
small parts. Perhaps someone might have some information on this
engine; it is s/n 1977Any help would be greatly appreciated. Don
Green, PO Box 618, Allyn, WA 98524-0618.
32/3/13 Samson Engines Most of us are aware of
the Samson gas engines built in Stockton, California. The same
company built the Samson Sieve Grip tractors, and eventually sold
out to General Motors.
John Minor Kroyer was the man behind all this. GM purchased
Samson Iron Works in 1918 and this left Kroyer with a pocketful of
Kroyer started a new company in San Pedro, California, called
Kroyer Motor Company. Here he designed and built a unique
four-wheel-drive tractor called the Wizard 4-Pull.
I am very interested in seeing one of these units and would like
to correspond with anyone knowing of one, or who has one. I have
some information to share on the company, but not much! Lester
Bowman, 2440 Thomas St., Ceres, CA 95307.
32/3/14 Corn Shellers Q. See the photos of two
com shellers I have rebuilt and need help to identify. The sheller
on the left has a 26 inch flywheel with part no. 1780. Where you
put the corn in is part no. 734 and where the cobs come out is no.
735. The sheller on the left has a 23 inch flywheel, part no. B100,
where the corn goes in is no. B12 and where the cobs come out is
B84 . It uses a round belt for the fan. Any information will be
greatly appreciated. Thomas Kruse, 6232 Cedar Lane, Miamisburg, OH
A. Without spending perhaps several hours
looking, we wouldn’t venture a guess on the pedigree of your
shellers. However, we’re presently working on a book
tentatively entitled, American Agricultural Implements, and among
many other things there are sure to be a great many different corn
shellers illustrated. At present though, our data is in various
stages of work, and to go through it for identification purposes
would greatly upset the book assembly process.
Potato Grower’s Profit Increased
32/3/15 New Way Engines Dick Hamp, 1772 Conrad
Ave., San Jose, CA 95124-4501 sends along some information on New
Way engines. In the adjacent illustration, a New Way is mounted
atop a Deere-Hoover potato digger. It’s always interesting to
see the new things that pop up continually within the hobby. By the
way, Hoover built the potato digger and Deere sold it within their
organization as the Deere-Hoover.
DEERE-HOOVER POTATO DIGGER Powered by The
‘NEW-WAY’ TWIN AIR-COOLED) ENGINE
32/3/16 Fairbanks-Morse Q. J have a
Fairbanks-Morse 1926 Type H electric plant, and would like to
restore it, but have no manual. Unfortunately, the nameplate is
also missing. A picture of this engine is shown on page 122 of
Wendel’s Fairbanks-Morse: 100 Years of Engine Technology. Any
information would be greatly appreciated. Don Green, PO Box 618,
Allyn, WA 98524-0618.
A. Despite a considerable file of F-M material,
we have nothing on the Type H light plant; perhaps someone can be
32/3/17 Gray Engine Q. See the photos of what I
believe to be a 1 HP Gray engine. The only markings are 1H2 on the
head and 29 on the side of the water hopper. I’m sure the
former owner painted it as shown in the photos, but I don’t
know if the colors and striping layout are as original. Can you
advise proper color, striping, etc. for this one? John O’Leary,
651 Union School Rd., Mount Joy, PA 17552.
A. Without a photo of the governor side,
we’re not sure that this is a Gray, although we believe it to
be. We have the Gray stationary engines listed as DuPont RS903 red,
but we can’t tell you for sure about the striping. Perhaps
other GEM readers can be of help.
32/3/18 IHC Type M Q. I have a 1 HP
International Type M engine, s/n W15126, and would like to know the
correct color and when it was built. John Brenden, 232 Tiffany
Ave., Central Point, OR 97502.
A. We have DuPont 84155 Adirondack Green listed
as the comparable color match. In checking the s/n lists, ours
shows AW111502 as the last number, built in 193 2. However, the AB
and AX kerosene models show AX13178 to AX16091 as 1930. The AX
prefix was for a Wico magneto. AX and AB engines were kerosene
models, while the AA and AW models were gasoline engines. This is
easily determined, since the gasoline models have but one needle
valve on the mixer, while there are either two or three on the
32/3/19 Myers Bulldozer Q. I have a Myers
Bulldozer pump with a 3×4 inch bore and stroke. How many strokes
per minute should this pump run, and what type of oil should be
used in the gear case? I intend to belt it to a 1 HP engine.
Also can you tell me when the following two engines were built:
International ModelM, 3 HP, s/n32633 and 1H Model M, s/n W18070.
George Clouse, 2434 Shultz Rd., Hastings, Ml 49058.
A. To answer the last question first, the 3 HP
was made in 1920, and for the 1 HP, we don’t have serial
numbers that high.
The Bulldozer pump of 3 x 4 size was rated at 70 rpm or 140
strokes per minute, with a usual speed of 60 rpm. We would suggest
a good combination gear lubricant. Motor oil is too light.
32/3/20 Geiser Company Q. Where is all the
equipment that was built by Geiser Mfg. Co., Waynesboro,
Pennsylvania? I am working with the Geiser family on the history of
the company ; there is one question they ask me, ‘Is there much
of the equipment left?’ In talking with other people we would
like to know where it is. What we would like to have is information
on anything built by Geiser, such as steam engines, threshers, gas
engines, tractors, sawmills. We are also looking for any literature
or information on the company. If anyone can be of help, please
contact: William M. Rohrer, 12025 Steven Ave., Smithsburg, MD
32/3/21 Clinton Generator Q. See the photo of a
Clinton ‘Panther’ engine with a generator on it. I would
like to know if the generator was made by Clinton or some other
generator company, and would also like to know the voltage of the
generator. Any information would be appreciated. Michael E.
Schultz, 1650 Schust Rd., Sagninaw, MI 48604.
32/3/22 Witte Engine Q. Previously I wrote you
concerning a Witte 2 HP engine on which I could find no numbers.
You once answered an inquiry, noting that among other places, the
end of the crankshaft might be a location. On my engine, I turned
up either 70111 or 79111 on the end of the crankshaft! Can these
numbers help me determine when this engine was built? Joseph L.
Betz, 3581 Falmouth Drive, Library, PA 15129.
A. Either way, we would say that your engine
was made in 1926.
32/3/23 d-Fab Engineering Q. See the photo of a
small crawler with a front end loader. The nameplate reads: d-Fab
Engineering, Div. of Fruehauf Corp., Route 202, Montgomeryville,
Pa. It is a Model 37 W.G. 7HT, s/n 6488, 5600#, Wisconsin V-4
engine, 48 inches wide and 56 inches long.
A. So far as we can tell it was made in the
late 1940s or early 1950s. There was a dealer in northern Illinois.
Ours has a front loader, but we understand they could also be
furnished with a dozer blade and a back-hoe. The transmission is
driven by a hydraulic motor and it is steered by hydraulic power
brakes. There are no pedals, just hydraulic levers and valves. Any
assistance regarding this machine would be greatly appreciated.
William R. Walters, 1707 Northwood Court, Valparaiso, IN 46383.
32/3/24 John Deere Problem Q. I have a Deere
Model E engine, 1 HP. It will run only with the choke ? to closed,
and then it runs nice. The needle valve is not plugged, and the
hole through the tube is vertical. Also I have tried three
different check valves in the fuel tank, and I replaced and ground
the valves. A friend of mine has the same trouble, and at a show
last summer I saw one running with the choke shutter partially
closed. Does anyone have an answer? Raymond Tjarks, 1505 E. 1st
St., Redfield, SD 57469.
A. Usually it’s a process of elimination to
find the problem. We note in your letter that you’ve replaced
check valves, checked the line for blockage, etc. Also, you have
replaced and ground the valves. That’s one area that’s
often overlooked, because leakage around the intake valve stem can
cause problems like the one you’re having. We’ll defer to
the John Deere collectors on this one; perhaps there’s a simple
answer to the problem.
32/3/25 Unidentified Engine Q. Recently we came
across an engine, or parts of an engine, with the following
1. The engine is a sideshaft, with the shaft on the left side as
viewed from the front.
2. We are missing the block. It is believed to be inside a
metal building which has a six inch tree growing through the doors
and blocking the entrance. At least we hope to one day gain
entrance; the new owners of the building have agreed when they get
around to opening it up. It is further believed that there is an
old tractor in the building as well.
3. The crankshaft is 1? inches in diameter; the rod is cast iron
with an offset lower half of the bearing which is connected to the
crank with a single bolt and hinge arrangement.
4. The head and cylinder are cast in one piece. The valves
are stuck and are installed through removable plugs on the top of
the head like a Lister tank cooled engine.
5. The flywheel is very heavy, 6 spokes, and 20 inches in
diameter with a 2? inch face and outer rim thickness of over three
6. The valves are mechanically operated with roller cam
followers on both ends.
7. The engine has a bore and stroke of about 3 x5
Possibly this engine is of British origin since it was found not
too far from the fishing ports at Deltaville, Virginia
Any help on this one would be greatly appreciated. Charles
Franklin, 28 Sarfan Drive, Hampton, VA 23664.
32/3/26 Freeing a Stuck Engine Q. I’ve
heard that you can use a grease gun to push the piston out of a
stuck engine. Is this true? John Stansberry, Box 2808, Ketchum, ID
A. Sometimes. Obviously, there mustn’t be a
lot of leakage over corroded valve seats and the like. Assuming the
head is removable, a heavy metal plate can be used in its stead,
and once the cylinder is packed solid with grease, the plate can be
installed, the grease gun plugged into a zerk, and let the fun
begin. However, a grease gun is capable of tremendous pressure, so
let’s not get too rambunctious and spoil things.
32/3/27 Information Needed Q. What is the year
built of the following engines?
McCormick-DeeringType M, 1HP, s/nA100274.
Associated Hired Man, s/n 109812. Maynard Rindahl, Route 2, Box
119, Fertile, MN 56540.
A. The McCormick-Deering is 1932; there are no
numbers for Associated engines.
32/3/28 A Miscellany Q. See photos 28 A and 28B
of an unidentified engine. It is all cast aluminum with a 2? x 1?
inch bore and stroke. It uses a Tillotson 13927 carburetor and a
Bendix-Scintilla Mode! Kl-19 magneto. The engine has a one-piece
crankcase with a pipe plug in bottom to gain access to the
connecting rod. Any information would be appreciated.
Photo 28C shows an engine by Gladden Products Corp., Glendale,
California. It is Model BB-1-7727, 3 HP, with a 2 x 3 inch bore and
stroke. Any information on this engine would be appreciated.
Photo 28D shows three Cauffiel Clipper engines. To the left
is a Cauffiel Model 000, the second is a Clipper Model 1250,
and a Clipper Cauffiel Motor. These engines were made either in
Temperance or Detroit, Michigan. Any information would be
appreciated. Michael E. Schultz, 1650 Schust Rd., Saginaw, MI
32/3/29 Reo Engine Q. I have a Reo Type H
engine with a Carter Model N carburetor, and would like to hear
from anyone with parts or information on same. Randy M. Brooks, RR
1 Box 203, Greenfield, TN38230.
32/3/30 Hallett Diesel Pursuant to ye olde
Reflector’s recent query on a Hallett diesel engine, we heard
from one other Hallett owner, Mr. Neal Matheson, 1828 E. 6th Ave.,
Mesa, AZ 85204. He writes that he had found no information either;
also that he has not started his engine yet, but is saving this
project for awhile.
32/3/31 Massey-Harris Q. Could anyone provide
information such as year built and the paint color for a Massey
Harris Model R30, 4 HP engine, s/n 71074? Any information would be
appreciated. Ronald H. Winship Jr., 115 River Rd., Windham, ME
A. The R-30 is the clue here . . . this engine
was built by Cushman for Massey-Harris. At this point in time
we’re not sure if they used DuPont 018 Massey-Harris Red or
not, although we assume so. There is no s/n information.
32/3/32 White Lily Engine Q. I have a White
Lily engine, s/n 523 and 2 HP, made by White Lily Washer Co.,
Davenport, Iowa; also made by Schmidt Bros. Engine Works,
Davenport, Iowa. It is shown on page 449 of American Gas Engines.
Any information on this engine would be appreciated. Robert K.
Ashcraft, Rt 2, Box 358, Mannington, WV 26582.
32/3/33 Information Needed Q. When were the
following engines made?
Economy Improved Model Gasoline Engine, #4192. There is no
horsepower stamped on the engine.
Witte 6 HP, s/n 2293 (the nameplate is damaged, and this is all
that is legible).
Harold L. Mathieu, RR2, Box 279, Chassell, MI 49916.
A. We can’t tell you about the Economy.
Possibly the full s/n is stamped somewhere on the engine, including
the end of the crankshaft. With the complete number we can give you
32/3/34 Witte Information Q. About a year ago I
picked up an old engine that the owner thought was a ‘steam
engine.’ All the wooden parts were rotted away, the pistons and
the valves were stuck, the head and carburetor were both cracked,
and I made a new rocker arm pin, crank, and many other parts. (See
the photo.) This is a Witte 5 HP engine, s/n 87810. What is the
year built, and what is the correct color? Fred A. Hodge, 16924
Freestad Road, Arlington, WA 98223.
A. Your engine was made in 1924. The correct
color is DuPont 5204 Forest Green.
32/3/35 Sattley EngineQ. I have a Sattley 1 HP
engine, s/n 65410. What is the year built and the correct
Also have an unknown engine. The connecting rod is marked J.R. 1
HP. Other parts are marked J. R. also. American Gas Engines does
not show a J. R. engine. Can anyone identify it? Barry Lutes, 1500
Abilene Dr., Broomfield, CO 80020.
A. Early Sattley gasoline engines were black,
but the later ones were DuPont 7498 Green. There is no s/n info on
A photo of your J.R. engine would be most helpful, but lacking
one, can anyone be of help?
32/3/36 John Deere Q Rich Howard, Hysham, MT
59038 sends along a photo of his recently restored John Deere D. He
writes: It is not quite perfect, but isn’t too bad the engine
was completely rebuilt with new block, turned pistons,
reconditioned head, new valves, etc., etc. Transmission and rear
end overhauled; the magneto is the later type with automatic
impulse, but still looking for an original with manual advance of
1927 or early 1928 vintage.
32/3/37 Rome, New York Q. See the photos of a
tractor I bought to renovate. The only information I have is that
it was built in Rome, New York. It has a No. 2 Novite motor and a
W. C. Lupe 3R3 transmission. There are no identifiable names or
model numbers. Any information on this tractor, the engine, or
components would be greatly appreciated. Robert Lathrop, 89 Bowen
Hill Rd., Cambridge, NY 12816.
32/3/38 Fairbanks-Morse Story Q In 1979 I got a
Fairbanks-Morse 3 HP Model ZC engine made in 1948. It ran nice as
long as it was running fast, but at an idle it would miss, and
would even stop. I checked the engine from end to end, the magneto,
the timing, valve timing, check valve in gasoline line,
compression, and tried six different kinds of plugs.
I have a 1930 Ford Model A, and it uses Champion C-4 plugs. One
day I took one of the C-4 plugs and put it in the 3 HP engine. It
didn’t miss a stroke. After an hour or so, I put one of the
previous plugs I was using back in the engine, and it went back to
poor running, just like before. Needless to say, I have run
Champion C-4 plugs in this engine ever since.
This fall I lay ed out half a dozen different plugs on the
bench, including a C-4. I noticed that the C-4 was the only one
where the outside electrode fired against the side of the center
electrode. All the others fired against the end. I then took an AC
plug, rebent the outside electrode so it fired against the side,
put this in the 3 HP, and it ran just as it should.
My conclusion is that the side-firing electrode is what made the
difference. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again.
..one is never too old to learn something new! William C. Kuhl, 464
S 5th St., Sebewaing, MI 48759-1559.
To this we add . . . don’t be afraid to experiment a little.
In some of our experiments, we once modified a plug by extending
the side and center electrodes an inch or so into the combustion
chamber, and this made all the difference in the world. For ye olde
Reflector, the cleanup is a dull and boring process, but a
necessary one. It’s the tinkering later on that’s fun, when
you can get an engine to knock off one lick after another without a
miss or a whimper.
32/3/39 Waterloo Boy Q. See 39A and 39B of an
engine I believe to be a 1912 Waterloo Boy 2 HP air-cooled engine.
I would like to know the colors of the original engine, and would
appreciate hearing from anyone with pictures, information,
dimensions, etc. of a completed engine. I have an ignitor from my 3
HP that will fit, but many other parts are missing. Did this engine
have battery ignition?
Also see 39C of a small burr mill, with the only identifying
marks being F1, F2, F3, etc. I would like to know more about this
mill, including the approximate power required. Dennis L. Buswell,
7625 College Park Drive, Brooklyn Park, MN 55445.
A. Perhaps someone can provide a positive id on
both the engine and the mill, and/or provide further
32/3/40 Information Needed Q. Can you supply
the year built for the following?
Economy 1, s/n 77307 Deere 1, s/n 339766 IHCM, 1, A6579 Robert
O. Bergstrom, 3701 Hawk Rd., White Swan, WA 98952.
A. We don’t have specific data on Economy;
the Deere was made in 1936, and the Type M in 1924.
32/3/41 Worthington Engine Q. See the photo of
my 1 HP Worthington engine, s/n 47850. When was it built, and what
is the correct color scheme? William Ahner, 2253 Mountain Rd.,
Slatington, PA 18080-3425.
A. At the top of page 566 in American Gas
Engines is the approximate striping scheme for the Worthington
engines. The striping was a medium red, applied over a dark green,
comparable to DuPont 74713. There are no s/n lists for
32/3/42 Deutsche Stationar Motoren Q .
Regarding the above title that you mentioned in a recent issue, can
you provide further particulars on this new book? Richard
Zwierzynski, 4301 4th Ave., Koppel, PA 16136.
A. This 176 page book is entirely in color, and
represents over 40 different companies. The text is entirely in
German, but this is greatly offset by the beautiful photography. We
suggest you contact the author, Armin Bauer, at Top Agrar, Magazin
fur Agrartechnik, Postfach 7847, 48042 Munster, Germany.
32/3/43 A-C Rock Crusher Q. Can anyone provide
me with further information on this Allis-Chalmers 7 x 12 jaw
crusher? The crusher feeds into a vertical bucket elevator, and it
in turn feeds into a hammer mill. The outfit has a 1912 patent
date. It was built by Allis-Chalmers Mfg. Co., Milwaukee,
Wisconsin. The complete unit weighs 6,600 pounds. Any help would be
greatly appreciated. Jim Moffett, Modesto, IL 62667.
A. Allis-Chalmers was a major manufacturer of
rock crushers, with this unit actually being very small compared to
some of the huge gyratory crushers. In fact, A-C built some of the
largest crushers in the world, and shipped them to all corners of
the earth. Can anyone be of help on this unit?
32/3/44 American Farm Machy. Co. Q. I am
attempting to locate any information concerning a small garden
tractor made by American Farm Machinery Co. at Minneapolis. I have
seen the Suburbanite which they made, but was looking for
information on additional models, such as the Kinkade. Any
information would be greatly appreciated. Ron Dicus, W 17110 Bowie
Rd., Spokane, WA 99204.
32/3/45 Johnston Mower Q. I recently acquired a
Johnston all steel Lawn Patrol mower made at Ottumwa, Iowa.
I’ve also seen Johnston mowers manufactured at Brookhaven,
Mississippi. Is this the same company? Also, my mower has a
Continental engine made at Detroit, Michigan. The book, American
Gas Engines, lists Continental Motors Corp. at Muskegon, Michigan.
Is this the same company? Any information on this mower would be
greatly appreciated. Robert M. Witham, RR 1, Box 159C, Alton, NH
A. The Continental is the same, but we
can’t tell you anything about Johnston. Can anyone be of
32/3/46 Information Needed Q. Can anyone
provide assistance on the following?
Ideal Power Lawn Mower Co. engine, No.J2387,Pat.June29,
Sears 500-95641, Series 10 8, small engine, vertical, air
cooled, pedal start.
Monarch 1.34 HP, Model TA4, #12356, Made by Royal Engine Co.,
Saginaw, Michigan. This is a single-Cylinder, hopper cooled engine
mounted on a steel truck and powers two diagphragm pumps with
Any information on any of these engines would be greatly
appreciated. Reginald A. LaRosa, 32 Terrace St., Montpelier, VT
32/3/47 Adams Grader Q. I need the diameter and
width for the front wheels on an Adams Square Deal Leaning Wheel
Grader, #2C, s/n 7051; would also like to know when it was built.
Ray Fisher, 1340 W. Glenn, Tucson, AZ 85705.
32/1/11 Standard Twin Garden Tractors Gerald B.
Lombard, 5120 Belcrest Ave., Bakersfield, CA 93309-4705 provides us
with some valuable data on the Standard Twin. For instance, from
1934 to 1938 Standard used the last two digits of the year for the
first two characters of the serial number. Beginning in 1939 they
inserted a zero between the two digits, thus 309 would by 1939. The
‘C’ identifies the tractor as a Standard Twin to
differentiate it from other tractors built by the same people, such
as Walsh, Monarch, Viking, Kinkade, and Suburban.
Regarding colors, the castings, engine, clutch, clutch housing
and gear cases, the fan shroud, and the handle bars are painted
blue similar to Rustoleum 2125 Deep Blue. The tool bar/ gauge
wheels assembly and the fuel tank assembly are painted black. The
large wheels, air cleaner, fuel tank, and control lever for
steering the tool bars are similar to Rustoleum 2163 Safety Red.
The wheel lugs, axles, carburetor, fuel filter and fuel line are
31/12/3 Vaughn Motor Co. William W. Smith,
22573 Old 44 Dr., Palo Cedro, CA 96073 writes that he has an engine
exactly like the one pictured, and it was made by Vaughn Motor Co.,
31/9/15 Hoosier EngineWilliam D. Miller, 2915
Hilltop Ct., Anderson, IN 46013 writes that he heard from two
people regarding his query, and has learned that his unidentified
engine is a Hoosier made by Flint & Walling at Kendallville,
Photo MM-1 shows a 1/5 scale of a 5 HP
Jacob Haisch Chanticleer engine as made at DeKalb, Illinois, in
1912. Haisch also made the same line of engines for Appleton Co.
and for the Rock Island Plow Co.
The model is a hit-and-miss, ignitor fired, and has a 1? x 1?
inch bore and stroke with 6 inch flywheels. As with all my ignitor
fired engines, the points are made from tungsten. I have it
governed to 475 (low) and 550 rpm (high). James B. May, 808 Elm
St., Sandwich, IL 60548.
Marvin Hedberg, 52200 Fairfield Ave., Rush City, MN 55069 sends
along several nice photos. MM-2 is a M from the 7
Mountains kit, and MM-3 is a pump and pump jack built from a Jim
Sodergren kit. MM-4 shown Marvin and Margit Hedberg on a tandem
cart behind a 1952 George garden tractor at Anderson’s Rock
Creek Relics, Rock Creek, Minnesota, in September 1996. Marvin says
he has many extra attachments for this little tractor.
A Closing Word
This writer has always been fascinated by history. Back in the
1950s, Oxford University Press put together A History of
Technology. Our four volume set goes from the beginning of time up
to 1850. Since some of this is rather uninteresting (downright
boring) it has always puzzled me why these volumes are so terribly
expensive (you can find them only at antiquarian book shops, and
then only rarely). Anyway, Volume 4 covers the Industrial
Revolution from 1750 to 1850. This is a very interesting period
because it provides the backdrop for virtually everything that has
happened since then.
Another area of history is what we now call oral history; those
interesting stories, tales, and legends that come down from
generation to generation. For example, my dad used to talk about
how his dad had to sit sideways on a corn planter and trip the drop
lever while his older brother drove the team. As the story went,
they took a bobsled and made marks in the ground so the guy working
the trip lever knew when to do his job. Before the days of
check-wire, that’s how it was done. While I never doubted the
story, I recently came across an old wood engraving that shows
precisely how this was done. A sled was used to mark out the corn
rows, and while the driver attempted to drive in a straight line,
the poor fellow sitting crossways (usually a kid) got the glorious
job of tripping the lever every time he came to a cross mark in the
dirt. Farmers of those days worked from dawn till dusk, so can you
imagine sitting on that tiny little seat and working that lever 80
rods up the field, 80 rods back, back and forth all day long? The
poor chap probably saw those black lines in the dirt during his
sleep for weeks afterward! How things have changed! How many kids
(or adults) would consent to this job in today’s world?
It’s tough enough to get anyone to carry the trash bags to the
curb once a week!