26/7/13 FBM Z 3 HP Q. I have a FBM ‘Z’,
3 HP with s/n 516556. has a gear driven FBM magneto. How does one
tell the various stales used? Steve Dale, 615 Maple, Edmonds, WA
A. Your engine was made in 1922. It was likely
equipped with the Bosch AB-33 oscillating high tension magneto, and
was probably retrofitted with the rotary style at a later time. FBM
offered retrofit kits at a reasonable cost, and we think this is a
tribute to the company for providing the changeover kits as a
definite improvement for their engines. We’re not convinced
that the changeover is a negative factor, especially since
we’ve never been convinced that the American Bosch AB-33 was a
26/7/14 Sattley Engine Q. Can you tell me the
year built and the proper color scheme for the Sattley 3 HP
hit-and-miss engine, s/n 43356? There is some red paint on the
engine that looks like primer, but I’m not sure. Kerry McDale,
171 Highland Dr., Winnemucca, NV 89445.
A. We can’t tell you much about the age of
the Sattley engines other than what is given on pages 316-17 of
American Gas Engines. About 1918, however, Montgomery Ward adopted
the color scheme of brown paint for the kerosene engines and black
paint for the hit-and-miss gasoline engines.
26/7/15 Continental Motor Q. Can anyone tell me
about an old military engine? It has the following pertinent
information on the nameplate:
1 -cylinder air-cooled4-cycle, overhead valves8 cubic inch
displacement s/n E-001088
Mfd by Continental Motor Corp. Date Mfd 7-60
This engine will not run smooth, and I need to find someone with
some information on this engine. Patrick Sweeney, 2108 Oak Lodge
Road, Baltimore, MD 21228.
26/7/15 McCormick-Deering Engine Q. Can anyone
supply information on a McCormick-Deering engine, 1? HP, s/n
AW105289? Frank Pence, Apt C6, 303 Edwards Rd., Greensboro, NC
A. Your engine was built in 1931. Considerable
information on these engines is available from various GEM
26/7/16 W-12 McCormick-Deering If you can
supply the authentic colors of a McCormick-Deering W-12 tractor,
kindly send this information to Raymond Reinders, PO Box 225,
Mallard, IA 50562. Also, please send us a copy of this information
here at GEM.
26/7/17 Cletrac Model E-68 Q. I recently bought
a Cletrac Model E-68, s/n 4A210. It uses a Hercules OOC
four-cylinder, 4 x 4? inch engine, s/n 241776. Some questions: 1)
What year was this tractor built? 2) What is the proper color? 3)
Is there a service source for parts, manuals, etc.? 4) Is this the
same Hercules that made the hit-and-miss engines? 5) Is there a
history available on the Hercules company that made this tractor
engine? Thanks for any help. Harley Collins, 2540 Fox
Road, Bath, PA 18014.
A. We can tell you that the E-68 (68′ track
gauge) was built in the 1934-41 period, starting with s/n 1A00 and
ending at 5A330. It used the Hercules OOC engine, and these numbers
begin at 223630. Beyond that we have no further information on the
year-by-year serial numbers for actual production. We can also tell
you that Martin-Senour 90T-3728 Orange is the correct color. This
is an entirely different Hercules company from the firm down at
Evansville which built the Economy, Hercules, Jaeger, and other
engines. If anyone can provide yearly serial number listings on the
Cletrac tractors, a copy of same would be a tremendous help,
especially since we get a lot of requests for Cletrac information.
As we indicated at the beginning of this column, Cletrac info is
very elusive, or at least it has been so for us.
For Oliver-Cletrac and Oliver crawlers, readers are directed to
Mary Ann Townsend,Floyd County Historical Museum, Charles City,
For a very reasonable photocopy charge, they might be able to
supply information on late Cletrac models, plus most of the
Hart-Parr, Oliver, and Cockshutt tractors.
26/7/18 Associated ? Model Q. See the two
photos of an Associated ? HP engine. It is hit-and-miss governed,
and I think two-cycle, because the carburetor is on the crankcase.
What is the proper gas-oil mixture for this engine? George Renshaw,
243 Bashon Hill Rd., Bozrah, CT06334.
A. Can any of the Associated ? HP owners kindly
contact Mr. Renshaw and give him the needed information.
26/7/19 International Tractor Q. See the two
photos of an International tractor. The engine nameplate reads:
Famous EngineNo. XB317 25h.p.International Harvester Co.
Any help or information will be greatly appreciated. Bud Motry,
220201 Arthur Rd., Big Rapids, MI 49307.
A. This engine was built early in 1911 as a
tractor engine. A similar tractor is shown on page 274 of the book,
150 Years of International Harvester. Only 274 units were built
between 1910 and 1914. You’ve sent us a ‘before’
picture. Could you favor us with an ‘after’ picture when
you get this one restored?
26/7/20 Alamo Vertical Engine Q. I own several
American-built gas engines. At the moment I am restoring an Alamo 3
HP vertical engine Mine has a broken crankshaft and it is missing
the fuel pump and priming lever. If anyone has any information,
dimensions, or other help, I would appreciate hearing from you so
that I can get this engine restored. Jim Bennett, Warburton Hwy,
Launching Place, Victoria 3139, Australia.
26/7/21 Bulldog Engine Q. I have a Bull Dog
engine, Type BD, 2? HP. The nameplate reads: The Fairbanks Company.
This engine looks like the Bulldog on page 48 of American Gas
Engines, under the Bates & Edmonds heading. Any information,
etc. will be appreciated. Roy Holten, 18498 Manchac Point Rd.,
Prairieville, LA 70769.
A. Fairbanks Co. did indeed sell the Bates
& Edmonds line of Bull Dog engines for some years. Your letter
indicates that you have numerous missing parts. Perhaps some of our
readers might be able to supply some photos, parts dimensions, etc.
There are no original drawings or other information to be
26/7/22 Small Engine Disease Q. I think I must
have the small engine disease. A friend of mine showed me a copy of
GEM, and now I’m looking for a restorable hit-and-miss engine.
What is a fair price? Prices I’ve seen for a stuck engine seem
to start at about $275. Are there any books available on engine
prices? Are some engines better than others as regards parts
availability? Dean Brigalli, 433 Margaret Drive, Fairborn, OH
A. One reason there isn’t a price guide is
that prices fluctuate wildly, especially from one geographical area
to another. Thus, ye olde Reflector has always held that a price
guide really doesn’t mean much. For those starting out in the
hobby, we would suggest going to some of the engine swap meets and
auctions around the country to get some idea of the market. For
those having nothing but a few hand tools, we would recommend
staying with an engine that is simple to work on, and one for which
used or repro parts might be available. These would include the
Deere, Fair banks-Morse ‘Z’, and International Harvester
engines. Parts are virtually impossible to obtain for many of the
scarce engines, necessitating the actual fabrication of replacement
parts. Unless one is well acquainted with a good machinist, the
safe economic path is probably to leave this work to someone else.
To farm it all out gets entirely too much money into an engine
which from a strict dollars-and-cents standpoint can never be
26/7/23 Pouring Bearings Q. My major problem is
in how to pour babbitt bearings. Can you tell me how to pour them
in place, how much to preheat the casting, and how to cast the
grease channels? David H. Reed, 1601 Woods Road SE, Port Orchard,
A. New babbitt liners can be poured in place
around the original crankshaft. Assuming that the crankshaft is
sitting in the proper right angle location, relative to the
cylinder bore, make up some simple jigs that will locate the shaft
in the same location after you melt out the old babbitt. Cut out
some cardboard (old cereal boxes are ideal) that will go over the
mounting bolts and just touch the shaft. Make several thicknesses
so there is room to take up the bearings later on. Cut some small
notches in the cardboard so that babbitt can run from the top of
the bearing to the bottom. Blacken the shaft thoroughly with smoke
from the acetylene fire so the babbitt won’t stick to the
shaft. Buy some furnace cement to close up the sides, or anywhere
else that the hot metal can run out. Let it set up. Heat the
casting up so that the babbitt will not cool too quickly. Otherwise
you’ll end with a lot of ‘cold shots’ and you’ll
end up doing it over. (Failures aren’t unheard of under the
best conditions, and with some experience. Ye olde Reflector once
poured a bearing three times before it was right, and we’ve
poured a lot of bearings!) While you’re heating the casting,
you should also be getting the babbitt hot. Don’t overheat, or
you’ll ruin it. It should char a slivered pine stick in about 3
seconds when it’s about hot enough. After you pour the bearing
and it cools off, take a very thin chisel and dig away the
cardboard liners, finally splitting the two halves apart at the
v-notches you made before pouring. Now with some finish work,
you’ll be set again. We find it’s easier to cut the grease
channels afterward with a very sharp chisel or a regular bearing
scraper. Pouring bearings is about like riding a bicycle. It’s
pretty hard to tell someone how to do it. It comes more by
experience and practice. A word of caution: Be danged sure that
there is no moisture about when you’re pouring bearings.
You’ll end up with hot metal coming at you with no conscience
whatever. And, anyone who tries this without face and eye
protection either has a death wish or they’re totally nuts!
26/7/24 Spark Plug Fouling Dick Schulze, 20086
Brown Dr., Chelsea, MI 48118 writes:
I have some old tractors that have given me fits with plug
fouling since they lowered the lead in gasoline. A set of new plugs
would foul out in 5-6 hours. My solution has been to go to a hotter
plug, and this has solved the problem so far. Does anyone have any
suggestions or comments regarding this problem?
A. We don’t have any real answers either,
but we have heard that there are some field additives available.
Perhaps some of our readers can enlighten us as to the availability
of these additives, as well as to the problem of plug fouling in
26/7/25 Waterloo Boy ColorsQ. I have a 2? HP
Waterloo Boy engine, and would like to know the correct color of
same. I have been told that the early ones were red, and the later
ones were green. Is there a specific breaking point for this
change? If anyone has one of these engines restored, could you let
me know the paint colors used? LuAnne Knuth, N3057 County Rd M,
Hortonville, WI 54944.
A. We’re not sure anyone knows when this
change was made, although it has been widely assumed that it
happened about 1914. Again, this does not give you the specific
information you desire. From what we hear, most collectors restore
them on the basis of what little traces of color they can find,
whether it be red or green. Usually, even a very badly rusted
engine will show some tiny evidence of its original color, upon
26/7/26 Before & After Q. See 26-A and 26-B
as before and after shots of a 4 HP Associated engine. It is a Farm
Hand 4 HP model, s/n 4C1432. If anyone can supply me with
information on when it was built, it will be appreciated.Bill
Poeling, RR 1, Box 280-A, Bethalto, IL 62010.
A. We can’t tell you when it was built, but
we like the restoration!
26/7/27 Tandem Tractors In the books you have
compiled, and in the various magazines, I have found nothing
concerning the tandem tractors . That is when you took the front
wheels and front axle out of one tractor, put a hitch on the front
of it, and hooked it to another tractor on the drawbar of the front
tractor. Some farmers did these things in the 1940-60 period. This
would make some interesting reading, and something special for the
antique tractor buffs to enjoy.
Also, have you ever come across information on the
Munktell’s tractor that was made in Eskilstuna, Sweden about
1913? It had 7-foot drivewheels and a 14.4 litre, 2-cycle motor
with two cylinders. Then there was the 1910 one-cylinder Lambert
tractor that was made at Anderson, In diana. I have never seen
anything in GEM about these two old antiques. George L. Jacobs, 708
Knapp St., Wolf Point, MT 59201.
A. If anyone has information on any of the
above, send it over, and we’ll be glad to use it.
26/7/28 Unknown Tractor Q. I am trying to find
the origins of a tractor. On the brass plaque it reads, McCord
Corporation, Detroit, Michigan. Mfg. under one or more of the
following patents: 1,978,604 etc. Any information will be
appreciated. John Burgess, c/o P.O. Box 1406, Bunbury, 6230,
A. The plaque to which you refer is apparently
for the radiator, not for the tractor. This appears to be an
Allis-Chalmers tractor. On the Model WD tractor the s/n is stamped
on the top of the left differential brake housing. On the WC and WF
tractors, the number is located on the rear of the differential
housing, just above the operator platform.
26/7/29 Domestic Engine Q. I am working on a
Domestic 3? HP engine, s/n 17150, and need to know the year and
proper paint color scheme. Any information will be appreciated.
Henry G. Liepe Sr., RD 3, Box 242, Mays Landing, NJ
A. If you can be of help, please let Mr. Leipe
and GEM know the proper color of the Domestic engines ASAP.
26/7/30 Information Needed Q. C. Lindsey, 47
Arlesey Road, Ickleford-near-Hitchin, Herts, SG5 3TG England sent
us a fax for information on the following engines:1. Acadia 3? HP,
s/n 350012. Alamo 1? HP, s/n 985533. Amanco (Associated)
6 Mule Team s/n 6096304. Banner 3 HP s/n 1402365. Lauson
Frost King Jr., (DeLaval) 1?HP6. Galloway 3 HP s/n
452147. IHC Famous 4 HP, s/n SC22308. IHC Famous 4 HP
LA181229. Lindsay Alamo 2? HP, s/n 6730410. New Holland
2 HP, Type P, s/n 7696
A. The Banner in 4. above might be the same as
already noted previously in 26/7/12. The engines noted in 7. and 8.
above were both built in 1912. We have no information regarding the
date built on any of the other engines. If any of our readers can
be of help, please do so. It’s very hard to get information on
an engine from one side of the Atlantic to the other, and we’ve
always appreciated how people in Holland, Germany, and Sweden
helped out ye olde Reflector in a quest for information on our
Junkers diesel engine. So please, if you can help Mr. Lindsey,
kindly do so.
26/7/31 Woollery Motors Q. Did Desco-Dominion
Equipment & Supply of Winnipeg sell Woollery motor cars and
engines? Were any sold under the Desco name, and if so, did any of
these have six-spoke flywheels? Does anyone have any information on
the Veerac Co. of Minneapolis? I believe they built railway motor
car engines. See the two photos of a Veerac. Has anyone heard of an
Adams motor car or engine? Jon Bontrager, 2701 West Wilden, Goshen,
A. If anyone has some answers to these
interesting questions, we’ll be glad to hear about it.