REFLECTIONS

By C. H. Wendel
Published on February 1, 2001
1 / 5
36/2/12A
36/2/12A
2 / 5
36/2/12B
36/2/12B
3 / 5
36/2/13
36/2/13
4 / 5
36/2/12C
36/2/12C
5 / 5
36/12/15
36/12/15

36/2/12 Economy Gas Engine? Q. See the photos
of an Economy gas engine. After looking at it I am convinced it is
a Waterloo Boy. Can anyone be of help? Waino Wierimaa, 31416 –
159th Ave., Sebeka, MN 56477.

A. We checked a couple of the patent dates. No
doubt about it, they match up to Louis Witry and others associated
with Waterloo Gasoline Engine Company. Beyond that, we haven’t
a clue… the low serial number would lead to the conclusion that
this is a very early engine.

36/2/13 F-M Clutch Pulley See the photo of a
disassembled clutch pulley from Fairbanks-Morse. Jim Wohlfeil, 190
HCR 1, Marquette, MI 49855 would like to know what parts are
missing so as to make it operable again. If you can help, please
contact him.

36/2/14 Novo Engines Several people have
inquired about serial number lists for the Novo engines. They are
included in the new edition of Wendel’sNotebook, available from GEM. However, the numbers begin
at 40,000. All numbers prior to that were built before July 30,
1918, but we don’t have the number records prior to that
time

36/2/15 What Is It? Charles Skinner, RR 1,
Berwick, NS BOP 1EO Canada sends a photo of a tool or a piece from
a machine. A handle and a threaded shaft open and close the center
piece. The two jaws are covered with woven brake lining. This piece
is about 6×16 inches and is made of cast iron.

Charles also comments that he recently purchased a Lister 5 HP,
Size L engine, s/n 20471. He would like to know if there is any way
to date this engine, and would also know if there is still a parts
source. If you can be of any help, please contact him at the above
address.

36/2/16 Another Coldwell Another late question
came via e-mail this month from Kim Thorp of 1006 Wakefield Drive,
Heyworth, IL 61745. Kim is a Coldwell lawn mower owner seeking any
information that might assist him in restoration.

A Closing Word

We’ve talked about lathes for several months. Probably the
greatest challenge to the novice or the occasional user is grinding
the tool bit properly, and setting it properly. Setting the tool
right about center is usually a good starting point. Set it too
low, and there is a tendency to climb, especially with a heavy cut.
On an old machine or one that really isn’t built for those
heavy cuts, that is an invitation to disaster. Either you will ruin
the piece or cause damage to the lathe, perhaps both. That’s
why it is wise to run the belt just tight enough to drive the lathe
properly, but still loose enough so it can slip in case of some
disaster. Most old lathes are swaybacked, so for real accurate
work, one trick is to set the bit a hair high at the tailstock end,
and as the carriage moves toward the headstock, it settles just a
bit where the bed is low. That way, as it settles, it also peels
off just a hair more metal, and helps keeps the piece straight from
one end to the other.

More often than not, too much clearance is ground into the bit.
All that does is weaken it. It takes a little judgement to grind in
some side clearance and some tip clearance. After grinding the
clearances, very carefully grind a small radius at the cutting tip.
Then the bit will do a much cleaner job on your piece. Honing the
cutting tip will also work wonders. For various tool steel bits, an
ordinary stone will work, but for carbide bits, get a diamond hone.
It is truly amazing how a few strokes of the hone will improve your
work.

Wherever possible, we use carbide tipped bits. They permit
heavier cuts, they will work on alloys that are impossible to touch
with tool steel, they last longer, and they leave an excellent
finish.

We think it is great fun to cut threads on the lathe with a
single point tool. Be advised though, if you haven’t done it,
some study of the process might be advisable. Find a book on lathe
operation, and follow the advice they give you. Cutting threads
requires your total concentration, especially if you are threading
up to a shoulder. Disengaging the lead screw and backing off the
carriage all at the same time do not leave any margin for error!
Perhaps we will discuss this whole matter of threading on the
lathe, but that’s gonna take some work on our part, along with
some illustrations to show the beginner how it is done.

Next month we will try to continue this series of articles on
machine tools. Who knows what might appear in the next issue!


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