Facts About Belt Lacing

By Staff
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Dan Lee, Rt 1, 1015 ‘A’ Road Nine NW, Quincy, Washington
98848, Reprinted from August, 1923, Farm Mechanics

Few farmers know how to correctly lace a belt. While most of the
belts that are laced are not laced right, they serve the purpose
for a short time. But sooner or later the lacing tears out or the
holes in the belt give way and much loss of time is the result,
with often a new belt being required. If the old one had been laced
as it should have been it would have done service for a much longer
time.

To go into the different methods used to lace belts, with an
account of their good and bad points, would require too much space
and such a technical discussion would not interest the average
person. So we are showing a few sketches of the easiest and most
widely used methods of lacing belts with a few remarks on the
general practice of belt lacing.

By following the lacing as it runs from one hole to another it
will not require very much practice before the average person can
duplicate the methods shown. Numbers 1, 2 and 3 are used where the
belt is simply connecting up two pulleys, whether driven or idling,
while Number 4 is for use where the belt runs over a very small
pulley or where both sides come in contact with a pulley.

We have not attempted to show any of the complicated knots used
in locking the ends of lace, but it will be found that by simply
running the ends through a series of extra holes, as shown in
sketches 2 and 4, and then cutting a notch in the slightly
protruding end of the lace, it will hold indefinitely. Burning the
end of the lace with a match makes it as hard as iron and will
assist in pushing it as hard as iron and will assist in pushing it
through the holes. If done before the lacing is started it will
also keep the ends in place after the joint is finished.

The first thing to do in starting to make a splice is to cut the
ends of the belt perfectly square. This can be done by laying a try
square along the belt and marking off with a pencil. When cutting
off be sure that a clean cut is made with no nicks on the edge that
will start the belt to tearing. For leather belts the holes should
be at least one-half inch from the edge and they may be put in with
an ordinary punch, but on rubber or canvas belts two rows of holes
should be used at least three-quarters of an inch apart. The holes
never should be punched, but should be put in with a sharp pointed
awl. The idea of this is to keep from breaking the woven strands of
which he belt is made and on which it depends for strength.

It will be found much easier to start lacing in the middle of
the belt first and work out to one edge. Then out to the other
edge. Do not pull on either lace too hard or it will be found
difficult to line up the other side of the lace holes.

In placing the belt on the pulleys always remember to put the
smooth side or hair side of a leather belt next to the pulley. A
canvas or rubber belt should be placed with the side having the
seam away from the pulley. If this is not done the belts will in a
short time crack. In conclusion do not forget that the purpose of
lacing a belt is to fasten the ends together in such a manner that
the joint is as strong and durable as the balance of the belt.

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