Making Antique Engine Carts

Tips for turning swap meet wheels into top notch engine carts

| June/July 2011

  • cart 1
    Dave Irey bought more than 30 steel wheels at an auto parts swap meet and used them on a total of nine antique engine carts.
    By Dave Irey
  • cart 2
    Dave made patterns out of wood for the bolsters he wanted.  
    By Dave Irey
  • cart 5
    The process for bending round steel rods for a 33-inch long U-shaped handle that looks much like an original.  
    By Dave Irey
  • cart 3
    Dave marked the desired bends in the steel with soapstone.  
    By Dave Irey
  • cart 4
    A finished bolster.  
    By Dave Irey
  • cart 8
    In all, Dave used the wheels to make seven new engine carts and repair two others.  
    By Dave Irey
  • cart 6
    Some of the wheels were worn out in the center and required reboring.
    By Dave Irey

  • cart 1
  • cart 2
  • cart 5
  • cart 3
  • cart 4
  • cart 8
  • cart 6

At a fall swap meet for auto parts at our local fairgrounds, I found a woman selling old steel wheels. Most of the wheels were rusty, but not broken. There were 30 or more of them so I bought them all at a reasonable price, deciding they were suitable for gas engine carts. I bought six sets of four wheels each and a few pairs and singles. Some had flat faces and two sets had round faces.

Wood for the cart rails
Once home with the wheels, I started making the carts. I had the wheels and some other miscellaneous parts, as well as several original carts to make patterns from. A neighbor was renovating an old factory in downtown Minneapolis and passed along to me some free 4x4 and 4x6 Douglas fir timbers.

The re-sawn wood was cleaned and squared on the wood joiner. All the holes were drilled on a drill press so they were squared and true. I have a complete woodworking shop and cut the rough wood into the various sizes and lengths that I needed to make the cart rails.

Additional materials 
At a local threshing show sawmill, I bought a 20-foot length of 2-1/4-inch thick white oak. I then went to a steel supplier and bought some 2-inch wide, 1/4-inch thick steel flat iron and several 7/16-inch-by- 20-foot long steel rods to make pull handles. I also bought a 2-3/8-inch-by-20-foot long steel rod and several 1- by- 3/16-inch thick flat steel pieces 20 feet long. A lot of engine carts use 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch pipe for axles, and some use 1-inch axles. I bought 1/2-inch, 3/4-inch and 1-inch stock and a 12-foot length of 3/4-inch solid steel shaft. With all of this and a box of bolts and square nuts, I went to work.



Bolster patterns 
I started by making some wooden patterns in the shape of the bolsters I wanted. Then I cut the steel pieces to length, marked the bends with soap stone and clamped 3/4-by-3/4-inch angle iron 1/4-inch away from the bend. I used this as a guide so that when I heated it with my oxy-acetylene torch it would be straight. I then put the red hot piece in the vice and bent it to fit the wood pattern. It makes the wood smoke and smell so I squirted it with water. Then, I welded it to the solid axle and it’s really solid now.

The smallest steel wheels were 7-inches in diameter and the biggest pair were 24-inches in diameter. I started with the smallest pair first and made a cart 20-inches wide and 28-inches long out of oak, perfect for a circa-1920 Ideal air-cooled engine. I then went on to make seven more carts using the general pattern of the originals and a little freelance thought of my own. Most of the carts are 20 or 26 inches wide with a length of 28, 44 or 48 inches.