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How To: Remove Rusty Pipe Plugs, Head Plugs and Screws

Rusted? Frozen? Just plain stuck? Learn tips to remove various types of stuck pipe plugs and head plugs

| May/June 1981

  • Pipe plugs

  • Pipe plugs

Pipe plugs become set in their ways, and sometimes difficult to remove. If a square head plug is to be removed, pound on the head of the plug using a one pound hammer. Rhythmic blows, not too hard, should be used and continued for a minute or more. A spray penetrant, like WD-40, always helps. Use a large wrench, like a 12" crescent to remove the plug. If the head is mutilated, a vise grip pliers may also be used.

If an allen head plug is encountered, select a drift punch as large as will enter the opening and pound on it as described. In removing this plug a socket type allen wrench is best, but a conventional "L" shaped wrench may be used if an 1/8" or 1/4" pipe about 6" long is placed over the long end of the wrench. This gives leverage and prevents flexing of the handle.

In removing any plug, cap screw, or nut, avoid using too light a handle. Flexibility of the handle will prevent breaking the plug or nut loose. If an acetylene torch is available, the plug, nut, or screw can be heated to facilitate removal.

If all else fails in removing the plug or screw, you can center punch the plug, drill it and remove it with an EZ out. A word about this process is in order. The first step is all important! This involves center punching the plug or stud exactly in the center. Look at the punch mark from several angles, realign the mark if necessary. Next select a small-approximately 1/8'-drill bit to start drilling. Hold it in alignment so you drill a straight hole. Drill clear through the plug or screw to be removed. 

Next select a screw extractor (so called EZ out) just smaller than the diameter of the plug or screw. I prefer square end screw extractors. Usually they will indicate on the shank the size drill to use for that extractor.' If not given, select a drill smaller than the diameter of the plug or screw, the extractor of corresponding size and large enough to provide a sturdy hold. Now drill the plug or stud with the larger size drill bit. Drive the screw extractor in tight. Use a crescent wrench large enough to give you good leverage and a rigid hold. Usually the broken piece can be removed quite readily, but there are exceptions. An example of a broken stud or screw that could not be removed by this method would be on an exhaust manifold. How much torque you can exert on the screw extractor depends on the size of the extractor. It is possible the extractor may break in the stud or screw.

Of course, this complicates matters, but the extractor can be removed by drilling a small hole just outside the corner of the broken extractor. With a punch and hammer, the extractor may be jarred loose and removed. Now it will be necessary to use a half round chisel or cape chisel to remove the threads of the screw or stud. A small chisel works best. I usually make one from an old drift punch of the right size. After the threads have been removed, the threaded opening can be tapped to the right size again.


Gas Engine Magazine A_M 16Gas Engine Magazine is your best source for tractor and stationary gas engine information.  Subscribe and connect with more than 23,000 other gas engine collectors and build your knowledge, share your passion and search for parts, in the publication written by and for gas engine enthusiasts! Gas Engine Magazine brings you: restoration stories, company histories, and technical advice. Plus our Flywheel Forum column helps answer your engine inquiries!

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