Fuller & Johnson Runs Again

1917 1-1/2 HP Fuller & Johnson Model N runs again — Part 4 of 4


| October/November 2014



Completed Fuller and Johnson engine restoration

A 1917 1-1/2 HP Fuller & Johnson Model N.

Photo by Peter Rooke

This is the last in a four part series on Peter Rooke’s restoration of a 1917 Fuller & Johnson 1-1/2 HP Model N. Read part 1, part 2 and part 3 for the full restoration process.

Governor

The 1917 1-1/2 HP Fuller & Johnson Model N’s governor latch follower, which rests on the governor ring around the flywheel hub, was badly worn on half of its face. To correct this wear, I ground the underside level and then shaped a piece of steel to fit on the latch before replacing the worn material. I brazed this in place and then ground it to shape so it matched the governor ring on the flywheel.

All that remained of the spring on the latch was a fragment, which helped establish the diameter of the spring wire. The outline of the old spring worn into the pivot helped establish the number of turns, so I wound a new spring using the lathe. It took a bit of trial and error to get the correct adjustment to the arms at the ends of the spring so that the latch worked correctly.

Fuel tank

The Fuller & Johnson needed a new fuel tank, so I followed dimensions provided by Nick Lozzi and cut out some 0.030-inch thick steel sheet. The tank needed to be 16 inches in length, so I cut a sheet width of 16.25 inches, which I rolled to a 5-inch outside diameter with a 0.50-inch overlap at the seam.

First, I needed to prepare a sunk lap seam by forming a 0.50-inch wide recessed strip along the length of the sheet. I did this by clamping a length of 0.0625-inch thick steel to the edge and beating the sheet metal with a hammer to push the metal down around it.

I rough-formed the end caps around a scrap piston that was 5 inches in diameter. To start, I cut out the two discs to a diameter of 6 inches before scribing a 5-inch inner circle. I centered one of these metal discs against the piston and then clamped it tight before using a hammer to start forming it over the lip.