Boy! It's sure been hot around here-how about you folks? I'll bet some of the shows were scorchers this year, but I'll bet the enthusiasts didn't wilt under the strain- probably a lot better for them than mud and rain! Do hope you are all having a great time sharing ideas and swapping stories. Let us hear some of them too. And now we'll read some of the letters that find their way to this column.
Awhile back AL GREGORITSCH, 3 Iby Street, South Burlington, Vermont 05401 had requested S/Ns for Associated engines. He sent this letter as a followup: 'First of all, I'd like to thank the many people who answered my request for serial numbers for Associated engines. Over 100 S/Ns were received! Lloyd Halbard from Marlette, Michigan sent the results of his research done at Waterloo, Iowa. The 1912 city directory there has a picture of a 1 HP air-cooled Chore Boy. 1920 was the last year the name Associated was used. In 1921 the name was changed to Iowa Engines from 2 HP-25 HP. From 1933 to 1937 they manufactured the Iowa cream separator and a HP engine. In 1938 they made automatic oil burners.
'From Ray Miller of Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada came the following: 'About 1896 a company known as the Iowa Dairy Separator Co. began building cream separators. The plant was located on the corner of W.Mullan Ave. and Jefferson St. in Waterloo, Iowa. Their products were good and sales grew rapidly. The company later became known as the Associated Manufacturing Co. and products increased in number. Engines were built such as the Iowa Oversize, Hired Man, etc. in ten sizes, 1 to 25 HP. When sold to Hamilton Engineering Co., Chicago, Ill., in 1946, their products were listed as register and air-conditioning grills, medicine cabinets and magnetos.'
'From the serial numbers received, I could not uniquely date any engine. However, the following is what I havegathered from studying them: 1) The first digits in the serial number correspond to the engine's HP rating. This only applies to engines with brass nameplates and not the ones with S/N on end of crank. For example:1 HP all start with #2; 1 HP start with 3; 2 HP with 3; 2 HP with 1; 2 HP with 1; 3, 3 and 3 HP with 5; 4 HP with 4; 6 HP with 6. 2) An Associated catalog printed in approximately 1913 lists the following sizes: 1 HP Busy Boy, air-cooled; 1 HP Chore Boy, air-cooled and water-cooled; 2 HP Hired Man, water-cooled; 4 HP Farm Hand, water-cooled; 6 HP Six Mule Team, water-cooled; 8 HP Foreman, water-cooled; 12 HP Twelve Mule Team, water-cooled. From this, I conclude that the , 2, 2, 3,3 and 3 HP engines with Associated nametags were built somewhere between 1913 to 1920 when the company changed its name.
'Again, I want to thank everyone who sent information!'
'I read the GEM cover to cover when it comes and really enjoy the magazine,' says EDDIE TURNER, Route 2, Box 279-B, Pamplico, South Carolina 29583.
'Here is a little info that might help all the old iron nuts like me. I havea Bosch magneto Type 1922 that goes on a 2 HP headless Witte engine log saw that nobody knows anything about. The magneto has three patent dates on it. I found out that when you have something for which you can't find information or instructions, if you know the name of it, patent dates or numbers, write to theU.S. Department of Commerce, Patent and Trademark Office, Washington, D.C. 20231. Tell them you need a photocopy of the original patent drawing and information and send 50 for each photocopy you need per patent date. This information really helped me out, so maybe it will help someone in Engine Land.' (Thanks, Eddie, I'm sure some folks will be glad to know that.)
TOM CAMPBELL, 39443 N. Greenbay Road, Zion, Illinois 60099 sends an account of his activities which may interest you:
'As a lot of GEM readers know, I have been working for about ten years researching the company history and keeping owner's files on the Challenge brand, built in Batavia, Illinois, while displaying my 1 HP Challenge in northern Illinois and southern Wisconsin. To all Challenge owners I have located and who have given me their name address, PN, SN, HP, pictures etc., I have given photocopies of Challenge history, literature, etc. and decals for their engines.'
Tom goes on to describe how he has computerized his engine records on a Timex/Sinclair 1000 computer. A lay-off from work gave him the opportunity to spend time working up a program for engine record keeping for this computer and he would be happy to share this knowledge with anyone else who keeps such records. His phone number is 311-872-7029.
A lot of our readers may enjoy the following missive on magnetos which comes from JOHN MACK, Carberry, Manitoba, Canada: 'From time to time in your magazine there are inquiries into magneto troubles. I will attempt to clarify some of these questions in an overall description of my experience and what I have learned over the years.
'The older magnetos were of the low tension type used to fire an ignitor. Of these, there is a rotary and reciprocating type, but basically of the same make-up. They consist of a magnet (sometimes two), a wound coil which passes by the magnet and produces a current that is passed on to the ignitor electrode by means of a collector ring, and carbon brush.
'Usually, the magneto is dirty, rusty, wet or worn. The first three are easy to rectify and the only parts that wear are the bushings and in extreme cases the shaft. At times you may notice that the brush is worn too short.
'If the bushings are worn, the rotor will tend to pull toward one side of the magnet. When it touches the magnet, the effect of generating electricity is lost. In my experience, I've found that if cleaning and drying the parts doesn't improve the magneto, the bushings are worn. One thing I forgot to mention is that the magnets can be weak. This is very rare, but if found to be weak they can be recharged at an electric shop. A charger can be made but unless they are used a lot, they are too expensive to make. However, that is another story.
'The other magneto is the high tension magneto. Of these, there are various types. The Wico used on the old 'M' McCormick Deering stationary is a reciprocating type in a way. It was likely designed that way to eliminate the use of an impulse to speed up the action of the magneto.
'The rotary is the most common with rotating armature, rotating magnet and rotating poles. They all have the same results but are put together differently. The disadvantage of the rotating armature is the fact that it is nearly impossible to replace a coil-the whole armature has to be replaced.
'The high tensions coil differs from the low tension in that it has two windings, a primary winding which is the same as the low tension, but in addition has also a secondary which boosts the voltage up to thousands of volts but lowers the amperage to a fraction. The high voltage gives it the 'punch' to jump the gap at the spark plug.
'Again, cleaning and drying usually clears up any troubles. If a spark occurs at the breaker points but no current at the spark plug, often the secondary winding is burned out, or the bakelite cover on the magneto may have a crack in it. Even the lead wire to the spark plug can have a crack where the spark can jump to any metal part of the engine that it is near. The condenser can be weak or burned out, too. If you are not familiar with them any electrical repair shop can test them in a few seconds.
'In the case of a multi-cylinder engine, a distributor is added to the magneto to get current to the proper cylinder at the proper time. If there is a crack in any of the distributor parts, trouble occurs again. For an old, hard-to-get part of a distributor, at times, they can be repaired by drying thoroughly, cleaning and giving a good coat of shellac. I had one magneto that some thoughtless person shot at with a rifle, breaking a part of the distributor off. It was necessary to fabricate part of the distributor with fiber glass commonly used in auto body work using wax plugs for placing screw holes and lead outlets. It now works perfectly.
'A word of warning when pulling out a rotor-make sure all carbon brushes are removed. I have come across so many magnetos that have been ruined this way. Usually, the insulating discs around the collector ring is broken, creating a current leak. Some, I have fabricated with epoxy, but it makes a lot of unnecessary work.
'Magnetos aren't really so complicated-just take them apart carefully, clean them and look for wear. Put them together again and nine times out of ten, they will work.
'If the spring is rusted out on the breaker points, it may be necessary to make a new one out of an old clock spring or something of similar nature.
'I hope this will be of some help to beginners. The whole thing is, don't be scared to dive in and learn about them. You may be surprised to find they are not such a mystery after all.'
Sending this picture and waiting for your correspondence is JESSE LIVINGSTON, Route 2, Box 118, Troy, Tennessee 38260: 'I recently dug up this Ottawa 2 HP out of a fence row. It seems to have had an air-cleaner under the long oblong part of the mixer. There is a square hole in the center of the long oblong part to fit a carriage bolt. I need to know what the air-cleaner looked like, that is, if that is what actually goes there! Need to know color of engine and pinstriping, if any. All letters will be answered!'
ROBERT D. SEELEY, RR3, Box 176, Warrensburg, Missouri 64093 sends along some great advice for those seeking any avenue of information in their hobby: 'From some articles that I read in your magazine as well as from correspondence with other old machinery enthusiasts, I find that many are not aware of valuable sources of information in their own localities. Therefore, I offer the following in hopes it will be an aid to the readers:
'Telephone directory service: If you know a name and location, or even approximately the place, the directory service can solve your problem in less than one minute- the address can also be obtained.
'Library service: Most public or college libraries have telephone directories of major cities in America. You can locate individuals, manufacturers and services. Some hotels have directories, too. Another reference often in libraries is theThomas Registry. This consists of about 12 volumes listing products, services, companies and other information. For example, I located a supplier of old pump organ parts from this source. Another useful source is theBennett Formulary, a nine-volume work listing recipes for making everything from rust remover to toothpaste. If your local library does not have these publications, ask them to order them!
'There are other publications available as well. A librarian may not know a one lunger from a drug store Indian, but there is a very good chance that he will know of the source that does, so ask!
'Finally, libraries periodically discard old publications for a small price. They may be just the ones you want. I've acquired several old books on farm machinery and magnetos by this process.'(Thanks for a lot of valuable information, Bob.)
Inquiring about two Evinrude outboard motors, this communication comes from PETER THOMSETT, 81 Earlham Road, Norwich, Norfolk, England: 'Sometime ago I bought two Evinrude outboard motors. One is as illustrated inGEM Vol. 17, No. 6. It has a vertical magneto made by Elkhart Man. Co., Monroe, Michigan and the #347 stamped on the bracket.
'The other motor is similar in design but much larger with a flywheel magneto. The #35819 is stamped on the tank. The story is that these engines were imported to power a Norfolk wherry. They were sailing vessels used on Norfolk broads and rivers as cargo carriers and were pulled along when unable to sail. I don't think the Evinrudes succeeded in this as both appear hardly used.
'Can anyone over there tell me the age and any other information on these engines and are they rare?'(Can you, fellows? Peter will be happy to receive your letter.)
EARL HURT, 2646 Broad Street N.W., Roanoke, Virginia 24012 writes, 'I restored a Fordson tractor about 1975, or you might say, I rebuilt it. I was fortunate to find a new set of pistons, rings and wrist pins for this tractor. The pistons were .0060 oversize that a farmer had bought 45 years before to overhaul his Fordson, but before he got to it he had the misfortune of letting his tractor freeze and bust the block, and I got the pistons for $40.00. So, I had the tractor cylinders bored to fit the oversize pistons.
'I read in Smoke Rings that someone was interested in the ignition system of the Fordson. He stated that all the old timers he had talked to had said the Fordson was hard to start, especially in cold weather. I believe the worst thing wrong with the old Fordson was the operator! Very few people understood the weakness of the Ford ignition system. They were good for the first few years, but they were like all other machines-when they got a lot of wear, they had to be repaired.
'Here is the best solution for the poor ignition system as I discovered when my father-in-law bought his first Fordson in 1925. The tractor ran well for the first few years, but after that he would have to pull it with a team of horses to start it. One day I was helping him and he pulled it to the top of a hill in order to get a good run downhill, but as soon as he got it turned around and started the team running down hill the tractor would start. I knew there had to be something wrong that corrected itself when the tractor was turned downhill. Upon examination, we found that the main bearings were made of babbitt and had worn on the ends and gave the crankshaft too much end play. To correct this, you use a pinch bar between the fan belt pulley and the front end bearing and pry the crankshaft forward. Then, remove the fan belt pulley and insert a flat washer between the pulley and bearing and that holds the flywheel up against the magneto post. The next best thing to do is take the carburetor off and throw it away and go to the junk yard and buy a side draft carb off a John Deere G or GP and go to a good machine shop and have them make an L coupling to fit on the Fordson intake manifold and carb. Then connect the hand gas feed or governor to carb. This is how I have my Fordson rigged up and it works perfectly. It will sit and idle so slow you can count the strokes.
'Now to start the tractor. Don't ever crank a Fordson With spark lever advanced as the vibrator coils will cause the engine to fire on a back stroke and the crank will slap your wrist and break it. You can use a 6 volt battery to start if you install an on and off switch. Do the cranking with the switch off. Then advance the spark half way open turn on switch and if any of the four pistons is at firing position the vibrator coil will fire the spark plug and all the rest will fall in line firing-you might have to try several times, but do not ever crank the old way as it is too dangerous. I hope my ideas will help some of the readers.'
'I need information on a Lauson engine out of a Lansing cement mixer. It is a 2 HP, 525 RPM, Type 5611 and S/N 81094. It has solid cast flywheels with a solid brass oiler. I would like the age of the engine and any data on the Lauson Co. of New Holstein, Wisconsin, as well as painting tips.
'I could also use some help on a small belt-driven feed grinder that is pictured. It is painted red and has a 12' diameter flywheel and an 11' square hopper. I would like to know where and when it was made.' This comes from DEAN R. HELWIG, R.R. #1, Carson City, Michigan 48811.
'Can anyone tell me the make or name of the engine I have recently purchased?' inquires ERNEST SCHENSTAD, Star Route Box 64, Zahl, North Dakota 58856.
'It is a 1 HP as all parts have 1 on them plus the plant number. The water-cooling hopper is unusual in that it has two fuel, or gas tanks, in recessed areas on each side of the hopper and two fuel lines to carburetor or mixer.'
Interested in a Lang tractor, is DOUG LANG, R.R. 1, Howick, Quebec, Canada J0S 1G0: 'In reading through the book The Agricultural Tractor 1855-1950 by R. B. Gray, I see on pages 50 and 51 a bit of information on the Lang Tractor. It apparently was made in 1917 in Minneapolis and it had some form of power steering. I'm interested in knowing whether any one has ever seen one of these tractors, or has one that I could see or request a picture from them. I would really appreciate it.' (If you have an extra picture it would really be an aid to Doug, and of course any information.)
H. ROSSOW, Box 15, Weston, Idaho 83286 would like to hear from some Fordson owners as he exclaims: 'I can't get the spark back on mine!
'Also, in working on a Chief engine, the only mention of this engine I can find is in July/Aug. '82 issue ofGEM titled Engine Trade Names by Darvin E. Jahnke and I'm not sure it's the same. There is no I.D. tag but a decal on the water hopper reads Big Chief, Waterloo Co. This is around a left profile of an Indian. I wrote to Alan C. King as I have one of his listings and he thinks it is a special built, but I don't. Anyway it's missing two vital parts, the carb and mag, but I have no idea what numbers or models to ask for.' (Let him know, fellas, and then he can send in an ad and probably find his parts.)
ALLAN M. HEASLIP, R.D. 2, Asbury Road, Hackettstown, New Jersey 07840 sends this: 'With the help of a fellow old-iron collector, Dick Roy of Branchville, New Jersey I recently acquired an engine with 'NANZY' BUILT BY WEAVER & WITTLE, LEBANON, PA. cast into each of its twin flywheels. It is a vertical air-cooled of probably HP. There are no serial numbers or I.D. plate. It has a side-draft Schebeler carburetor which I suspect is not original. It seems to be operable and I presume the black paint is original. Can anyone tell me a bit of history of the manufacturer, approximate date of manufacture, typical uses, idiosyncracies, etc.? Hope to use to power a small walking-beam diver's air pump. Will provide a synopsis of findings to all respondents. Thanks!'
'I wonder if any readers can give me some needed information on an Ideal Model R air-cooled engine which I just bought?' inquires NORMAN ANDERSON, 323 South 8th Street, Livingston, Montana 59047.
'I can't seem to understand the oiling system. It has a drip type oiler on the cylinder. Does that also oil the rod and main bearings and if so how many drops per minute? It has Timken main bearings and the crankcase is enclosed, which has no drain or filler plug. Also the bore and stroke and RPM and HP? The S/N is X30248 and it has a spark plug and is a hit and miss system. Would surely appreciate any information.'
'I've been receiving your fine magazine for four years now and it's the BEST and most helpful,' declares KEN CURRIE, 9056 Riverside Drive, Brighton, Michigan 48116.
'I recently got an engine that doesn't appear in any of the literature I've been collecting. It is a 14 HP Waterloo Boy, hit and miss. See picture (and that is my six year old daughter Karen with it). The tag has patent dates up to 1907 and the S/N is 115308. The old Waterloo Boy catalog I have only goes to 12 HP and it must be about a 1911 catalog. I surely would appreciate some help on the year from some of our pals in Gas Engine Land. Keep up the fantastic work!'
'First of all, you have a great magazine!' says LEON HANSEN, Route 1, Box 9, Irene, South Dakota 57037.
'Now, my problem! I recently bought a Centaur tractor. I've never seen one before and I would like to correspond with someone as to what color to paint it and any other data they might have available.' (Watch the mails, Leon, I'll bet you get some answers.)
'I am hoping that some reader of your Smoke Rings may be able to give me some information on my engine,' says MARVIN E. RUEBUSH, R.R. 5, Box 187C, Staunton, Virginia 24401.
'Here is what the brass tag states: Alamo, 6 HP, BF Avery & Sons, Atlanta, Georgia, Factory at Hills-dale, Michigan. It is a horizontal, hopper-cooled, and igniter is fired by a Webster magneto, hit and miss engine. It is extremely heavy for a 6 HP engine. Does anyone have an engine like this and I wonder if this is the same Avery Company that made steam engines and tractors? Will appreciate hearing from your readers on above subject. (The Avery Planter Company, which produced the famous undermounted steam engine and a relatively unsuccessful line of tractors, was located in Peoria, Illinois.)
'I just want to write to you to say I think GEM is great!' writes WILLIAM ROGERS, Independence Lane, Hannacroix, New York 12087.
'I have 9 engines all of the same make and basic design. I collect old cast iron Briggs & Stratton, models WI, WM, NS, 5S, 6S, NP and a very old FH.
'I also have a very odd engine-a Cunningham. It is part Briggs & Stratton with a Wico magneto and Tillotson carburetor. It was made for, or by, the Cunningham Tractor Company in Rochester, New York. I have seen only one other engine like this one. My engines aren't as old as many of the ones in your magazine, but they are getting rare and I think they will eventually be collector's items, too. They were made in the mid 1940's through 1954.' Bill would like to hear from other Briggs & Stratton collectors.
JACK GHERE, RR1, Odin, Illinois 62870 has a 1 HP engine and needs to identify it. All that is on the name tag is 1 HP, S/N V105423, RPM 550. The only casting numbers are V82 on rod cap and V80 on rod and 220 on base. It has a 3 bolt air-cooled head and the color seems to be dark green. Any help?? Would be appreciated!
'Can anyone help me with the light plant in the picture? It is dark green and flywheel is red, points at oil filler. I found only a No. 1923 stamped on the block. Bore 3 & 5/16'. I need to know output, maker, etc., as a lot of bits are missing. Thank you!' says MICHAEL CAR-WOOD, Stratford Lodge, Raheen, Baltinglass, Co. Wicklow, Ireland.
Coming up are some of our shorter requests for help, starting with STANLEY BYERLY, Route 2, Box 97, New Salisbury, Indiana 47161, 812-347-2186, who would like to know how to tell the year of a Case tractor by serial number. He says he has been told different ways but sometimes it just doesn't come out right!...OSCAR A. BUEHLER, 7145 Ryan Road, Medina, Ohio 44256 has just purchased a row crop Graham Bradley farm tractor, and he needs to know the original color. . . .DOUGLAS GORSUCH, Route 1, Box 190, Lindside, West Virginia 24951 would like to know who made the Bear Cat two-wheel garden tractor and what engine was used on them. . . .MARTEN W. WALTER, 215 S. Second, Box 432, Guttenberg, Iowa 52052 has acquired an old corn planter believed to be a Fuller & Johnson. It has a lever on the left side to adjust the shoes for hillside planting. He would like to know if F & J made horsedrawnfarm machinery and what year. . . .E. J. BUNDSCHUH, 503 Evergreen, Sherman, Texas 75090 rebuilt an unknown gas engine which turned out to be a Waterloo Boy K3. He'd like to know original color and HP. . . .BRADLEY MARTIN, 2212 South T, Fort Smith, Arkansas 72901 has a 2 HP Arco S/N 3S1619 and wants to know when this engine was made, how common it is and what carb he should have. . . .WENDELL L. STAHLER,2095 Huntington Drive, Lima, Ohio 45806, 419-645-5103 would like to know thecolor of a 1920 Samson Model M. He says there seems to be controversy over how dark or how light the gray should be. He will also answer all letters pertaining to the Samson. . . .HARRY P. MASTER, Route 3, Box 50, Hattiesburg, Mississippi 39401 would appreciate hearing from you with data on a Johnson iron horse engine, Model X-519, S/N 121846. He believes it was manufactured during or slightly before WWII. Would like the correct year of mfg. also. . . .GLEN OTT, Route 1, 550 N., Churubusco, Indiana 46723 wants to know how to tell years of Maytag engines by serial 'number. . . .MARVIN MILLER, R.R. 3, Box 197, Logansport, Indiana 46947 has a Rock Island horsedrawn corn planter and would like to know when and where it was made. Some people called it sprattle wheel or crazy wheel planter. . . .DAVID L. WACHTER, 2409 Alpha Street, Lansing, Michigan 48910 recently purchased a Stover No. 4 Ideal Burr Mill and would like to know the year it was made, the color and the HP needed to run. . . .JIM ADKINS, 808 South Turner Road, Independence, Missouri 64056 has recently purchased a 1 cylinder Leroi gas engine and would like to know the correct paint color. He also wants to know the correct magneto this engine used. . . .LLOYD LINDERSON, 2907-93rd Avenue S.W., Olympia, Washington 98502 is trying to find out how many of the old first year Sears Economy engines are still around. He would like to correspond with other owners of 1909 Sears Roebuck built Economy gasoline engines.
HENRY NUTT, 26 Tennyson Street, BULIMBA, Brisbane, 4171 AUSTRALIA has an inquiry: 'I have an American-made engine which I hope to restore. It is the Model, Auburn, Indiana USA., No. 1543, 2 HP, 350 speed. Patented February 22, 1898. It is a horizontal engine with twin 24' x 2' six spoke flywheels. The governor is built in the timing gear and the head, barrel and base are monocast. Someone has fitted a Ford 'T' carburetor and a spark plug where the ignition points should be. Could your readers supply me with any information on this type of engine-mainly on the carburetion system and kind of dynamo used in the ignition system?'
'Hi Anna Mae-do love your philosophical thoughts and ideas inGEM! Here is a picture of a lamp I made of an old Maytag engine. I do read myGEM by it, natch! My next project is to make a coffee table with heavy glass top on a small engine- to rest my feet on-with the tape recorder playing the snorts and pops of a running engine-who could ask for a better atmosphere? Keep up the good will and work!' (It was signed 'The Atomic City Kid in Idaho'-and that's all. Perhaps when you see this, Idaho Kid, you can send me your real name and address! The lamp is pretty nifty.)
Some tips on taking engine pictures come from JERRY FARMER, 5733 Bluebird Lane, Minnetonka, Minnesota 55343 who relates: 'We hope all collectors will stop and dwell for a moment on a problem that perplexes just about everyone from time to time. Namely, the photograph! Someone recently sent me a picture and a request to identify it. Not one shred of written clues, and the picture was-well, a mystery! Every mistake that could be made was. Matthew Bradys we ain't, but hey! Here are a few commandments that should be followed:
'1. Take two shots, not one. If you take a single side, then 180° is automatically shut off from the viewer. 2. Quarter them, instead of broadside. This increases the visible field. Often, two quartering shots are as good as four broadsides. Don't superimpose structures on one another. 3. Get close. The photo I mentioned was so far away, I couldn't improve it with a magnifying glass. A few dollars for a close-up lens is well worth it. 4. Always backdrop. A sheet or such. I use a piece of plywood. If you don't, every hunk of iron in your shop clutters up the view. 5. Make sure there is light. Even if you have flash bulbs, don't assume there will be sufficient light. Many cameras will shut out excessive light, but can only create a fixed amount with the bulb. If there is not enough the result is often-well, you've seen 'em.
'Commit these five rules to memory. No doubt there are more, but if these five cautions are heeded, at least, the viewer will not feel so puzzled! Good luck and good clicking!' (These are good rules to follow, and also remember when sending pictures toGEM, we get far better reproduction from a black and white print than from a color one.)
'I have been a fan of your great magazine for over five years and now I find I must turn to your many readers for some help, 'writes PETER D. HASKELL, Box 98, South Freeport, Maine 04078.
I am trying to identify the marine engine shown in the photo. It has no markings or S/N. It is headless design, spark plug ignition, cast iron with a bronze rod, water pump and timing assembly. Approximate dimensions are: bore and stroke 4', solid flywheel 15' dia., face 3', overall height 19', length 21'. The outstanding features seem to be the horizontal positioning of the water pump and the timing mechanism, which consists of a bronze collar containing an insulated contact, surrounding a fiber spool on the crankshaft, which has a brass contact on it. The whole collar will rotate on the shaft and has a rod with a wooden handle sticking up from behind the flywheel to adjust the timing. Sure hope someone out there has an idea on what this might be. Thanks for your help!'
And now to leave you with some thoughts: Revenge is the sword that wounds the one who wields it. . .You can learn a lot from the bible; you can learn more practicing it. . .If you are afraid of criticism, you'll die doing nothing. . .If you want work well done, select a busy person-the other kind have no time. . .A smooth sea never made a skillful mariner ... And that's it for this time, Dear Ones, I'm thinking of you-have fun at the shows and write me-Bye-Bye-