John Deere Igniter Repair

| May/June 2001

Ignitor parts

Ignitor parts starting from top and going clockwise: body, moveable electrode, stationary electrode, taper pin, hammer, anvil. 

Photo by Jim White

The first order of business in igniter repair is never be afraid to try your luck, and if all else fails, you can send it to any of several professional repair businesses advertising in GEM.

The basic procedure in repair is to first determine if the moveable electrode is stuck or not, and if it is, soak the entire igniter in your favorite rust buster for a month. Upon removal from the magic solution extract the two cotter pins which may have to be broken off and drilled out at a later date.

After the above, remove the lock nut and washer from the taper pin and remove the pin from the anvil. Next, gently tap the moveable electrode with a brass hammer, or piece of wood being hit with a hammer. It is easy to mushroom the end of the electrode if hit directly with a steel hammer. If all the above fails, use the torch, 'heat wrench' and repeat above. Using this procedure I put the body of the igniter in the vice and heat all parts the moveable electrode is in contact with. Sometimes it is necessary to repeat all the above steps to free an extremely rusty electrode.

If the moveable electrode is not stuck, the removal procedure to this point is extremely easy.

The last step in disassembly is to remove the nut, wire clip (fahnestock clip), and washer from the fixed electrode, then remove the mica washers from the outside of the igniter. Remove the fixed electrode from the body by pushing on the end with a wood block. It may be necessary to tap on the block, gently. Hurray!!! The igniter is apart, and this was the most difficult part if the electrodes were stuck in the body.

You should now have the following parts: igniter body, taper pin with nut, moveable electrode, fixed electrode, anvil, hammer.