Ingeco Engine Gets New Life

Diving into 2-1/2 HP Ingeco engine restoration with Webster magneto repair and a new cart — Part 2 of 3

| February/March 2013

  • Model AK Ingeco
     The 2-1/2 HP Model AK Ingeco as purchased.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Broken trip finger
    The worn trip finger.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Broken terminal block
    The broken terminal block.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Repaired trip finger tip
    The repaired trip finger tip.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Brass terminal block
    The new brass terminal block.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • New brass terminal block
    Completed terminal block repair.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Cart illustration
    Catalog illustration of the cart.
    Illustration Courtesy Peter Rooke
  • Spokes and jig
    Starting to fit the spokes using the jig.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Drilling spoke holes
    Drilling the eight spoke holes.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Cart timber
    The cart timber after sawing to size and drilling the holes for the various bolts.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Welding spokes
    A wheel after welding the spokes.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Completed wheel
    A completed wheel.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Rear axle
    Drilling holes in the rear axle for mounting bolts.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Heating rear axle brace
    Heating the rear axle brace while bending to shape.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Fitting rear axle
    Test-fitting the rear axle brace — note the sheet metal being used to prevent the hot metal from marking the cart wood.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Axle turntable
    The axle turntable.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Front axle bracket
    The top of the front axle bracket when welding supports.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Turntable pivot sleeve
    The sleeve for the turntable pivot being brazed to the top rubbing plate.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Completed yoke
    The completed yoke.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Drilling into steering yoke
    Chain drilling to make the steering yoke.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Welding threaded ring
    Welding the threaded ring for the handle to the first arm. Note the V'd edge.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Finished cart
    The finished cart with subbase mounted.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Gasket
    The gasket marked for drill bolt holes.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Pushrod wear
    The wear on the pushrod.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Completed gasket
    The completed gasket.
    Photo By Peter Rooke
  • Finished pushrod repair
    The finished repair.
    Photo By Peter Rooke

  • Model AK Ingeco
  • Broken trip finger
  • Broken terminal block
  • Repaired trip finger tip
  • Brass terminal block
  • New brass terminal block
  • Cart illustration
  • Spokes and jig
  • Drilling spoke holes
  • Cart timber
  • Welding spokes
  • Completed wheel
  • Rear axle
  • Heating rear axle brace
  • Fitting rear axle
  • Axle turntable
  • Front axle bracket
  • Turntable pivot sleeve
  • Completed yoke
  • Drilling into steering yoke
  • Welding threaded ring
  • Finished cart
  • Gasket
  • Pushrod wear
  • Completed gasket
  • Finished pushrod repair

This is the second in a three-part series on Peter Rooke's restoration of an Ingeco engine. You can read part 1 in Ingeco Model AK Is Reborn. 

Webster magneto for Ingeco Engine

The magneto for this Ingeco engine restoration sparked when tripped, but its gold paint was peeling and the mica washers on the fixed electrode looked broken and thick with oil. The springs were also past their prime, appearing original but with substantial rusting. To ensure trouble-free operation, I stripped down the magneto to check it over, knowing I could carry out the essential step of re-charging the magnets using the new magnet charger at reassembly. If you strip a Webster, note the orientation of the armature. For magnetos tripped from the right there should be a fine line scribed across the end of the armature shaft on the trip finger end.

Once I cleaned off the remains of the old paint from the bracket and the trip finger it became more obvious that someone had made repairs to them, as large blobs of weld and braze were evident. I filed these down to improve the shape and then I stress-tested the parts by holding them in a vise and twisting them to ensure the remaining weld would hold.

The wedge was badly worn on the trip finger, with the bearing face that runs over the roller being an uneven shape. To make it easier to finely adjust the magneto timing, I trued the bearing face up with a file. At some point, the trip finger from the magneto had also been welded to correct a chip or wear. This repair was so soft that it was already showing signs of wear, and it would have to be repaired or replaced.



To repair the tip of the trip finger, I cleaned up the old repair and the broken area with a grinder to get a level surface. I brazed a piece of 0.188-inch thick square drill rod to this edge before I cleaned and shaped it with a file to the right profile. Once the shape was nearly right, I wired the tip to the finger, heated it, and then quenched to harden it before I finally cleaned it with a fine grinding wheel.

There was a little play in the magneto bearings, but this was not worthy of attention as it sparked well enough.