TIRED IRON


| September/October 1968


3125 West Fisk Ave., Rt. 3 Oshkosh, Wisconsin 54901

Another short story and picture about 'Tired Iron'. This is one for 'What is it?' I mentioned an engine in G.E.M. May-June 1968 on page 23. This engine laid in a farm yard for many years and was in real bad shape. The owner didn't know the make or age. It has the letters B&EM Co. cast in each flywheel. The crankshaft looks like it is made from a bent shaft not forged, and then machined. The cam gear is mounted below the crank gear with an eccentric on the inside of the gear to oper-a lever to run the gas pump. On the outside of the cam gear is a pin and roller to operate a lever that is hooked to a vertical rod that operates the igniter and exhaust valve. In this linkage near the cam gear is where the catch is to get the Hit and Miss effect. The vertical rod operates. the igniter on the down stroke and the ex-valve at the bottom of the down stroke. The gas tank is cast in the base. The gas pump is mounted at the base, pumping the gas up to a small reservoir that feeds a Lunkenheimer carburetor. The reservoir overflows back down to the tank. The main bearings and crank have grease cups. The cylinder has an oil cup and a priming cup. The gas pump, gas reservoir, water tank and skids are not original. It has a four inch bore and a four inch stroke, 18 inch flywheels, make and break ignition, governor and hit and miss. I hope someone can tell me who made it where and when?

I don't know how some engine restorers solve their problems, but when I need piston rings and can't get them the exact size I use two 5/32 inch in a 5/16 inch groove, two 1/8 inch rings in a ? inch groove, etc. These rings are all compression rings and can be ordered from an auto parts store. When it comes to crack-ed casting like heads and water jackets I grind a V in the break and pre-heat the part with a gas burner from a water heater and weld it with a torch and cast iron rod. You have to use plenty of heat and flux. When it comes to a cracked water jacket it works good to V the crack and solder it using a little preheat. All these repairs can be ground or filed to size so they can't show. After welding they should be kept hot for an hour or so and then cooled slowly.

When it comes to intake and exhaust valves I use valves from a car, truck, or tractor. If the stem is too long, some can be cut and drilled the way they are and some can be made softer by heating the tip of the stem and cooling slowly. Some stems will get harder if heated. The valve head can be ground down to any size.



To make some coil springs I use either piano wire or spring wire purchased from a local spring factory. The use two small blocks of wood in the jaws of a vise with a rod between the two blocks sawing a slot in the end of the rod to put the end of the wire in. Then turn the rod feeding the wire in at an angle to make either a push or pull spring. To change the size use a different size rod.

I had a picture and story of a Simplicity and Termatt and Monahan in G.E.M. It didn't take long to get several letters from the state of New York to the state of Washington asking about these engines, especially, the T. & M.














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