After enjoying a very nice Christmas Holiday, along comes January 7, our customary deadline for this month's column. Even after writing this column for quite a few years, the 7th day of the month seems to come up very quickly, and quite unannounced that is, unless we miss our deadline and get a pleading call from the home office at Lancaster. We must confess that one month last fall, the 7th came and went without our even thinking about it. In order to keep things on schedule with mechanicals, printing, and mailing, that required us to get busy and burn the midnight oil. However, we admit that we enjoy putting all your mail in a stack and then going through each letter. Hopefully, we can continue for some time to come with this forum.
As a reminder to older subscribers and as a bit of information for the newer ones, this column is intended solely as an informational forum. We don't have all the answers to your questions, and the truth is that even after 25 years of study, plus 30-some books on engines and tractors, we are continually amazed at the new discoveries and new information that appears. Many times we call upon other readers for answers, and in the vast majority of the questions, someone has some data or some. answers.
A new subscriber recently wrote us asking how to go about lining up the belt for a small engine to another machine, such as a corn sheller. At first we were taken aback, since this writer has been doing this sort of thing from a kid onward. In fact, it was with considerable pride that we could unhook from the threshing machine, make a loop with the tractor, and be lined up the first shot. That bit of nearly useless information aside, we thought about the letter we received, and it dawned on us that lots of people of our time were never around this equipment, never operated it, and perhaps never saw any of it until becoming interested in our hobby. Then we started to put our thoughts on paper, and we found it challenging to pass along something that we've always taken for granted. Here's our stab at it:
In aligning anything, it's a given that the two shafts, that of the engine and that of the driven machine have to be parallel. We always called this 'squaring up' or 'lining up.' With a good eye and a bit of experience, it's relatively easy to roll out the drivebelt square to the driven machine. Then all that's necessary is to square up the engine or tractor to the drivebelt. If the belt is running in or out on the drive pulley, shifting the front end of the machine one way or another usually will suffice. Of course it is essential that the driven machine be staked down so that it can't shift or move. This usually doesn't require a whole lot, especially on a small corn sheller or feed grinder.
With a tractor, backing into the belt, getting it tight, and setting the brake is all that's required. Steam engines and a few tractors require someone to drop a block in front of the pulley side drive-wheel when the belt is tight. Gas engines, especially the larger ones, are a bit different.
For small engines, driving a stake and using a small cable comealong to tighten the belt is probably the easiest way. It will still be necessary to drive a stake or two alongside the truck wheels to keep the engine from shifting out of position.
Belts are becoming increasingly scarce. Seldom does one find any decent leather belting, and if so, it is usually quite expensive. Canvas belting was once very popular, but not particularly durable. Rubber belting is the most common, and even this is becoming hard to find, especially in any length without a lot of splices. For most collectors the need to have a rather expensive belt lacer and a supply of Clipper belt hooks is probably best served by having someone with this equipment to do the job. It's usually not a major problem to find a collector having a belt lacer and know-how to use it.
Prior to the much superior belt hooks, leather belts were spliced endless and glued at the joint, or a laced joint was used. There were several methods for lacing, depending on circumstances. All required the careful use of a belt punch or a belt awl to pierce the two ends in a specific pattern. The lace leather was then drawn through the holes in a specific manner and this resulted in a strong joint, although it was a bit bumpy, especially going over small pulleys.
Our first question this month is:
32/3/1 Witte Engine Q. I have a Witte 12 HP engine, s/n 90507, and would like to know when it was built, the correct color scheme, and the number built. Tony von Isser, 6680 N. Alvrnon Way Tucson, AZ 85718
A. Your engine was built in June 1930. We have DuPont 5204 Forest Green listed as a comparable color match; we don't know how many were made.
32/3/2 An Old Tool Q. See the photo of an old tool we found, but we have no idea what it is. Can anyone help? Harry Butler, PO Box 2010, Chino Valley, AZ 86323.
32/3/3 Simplicity Engine Q. I have a Simplicity engine with no identification other than the name being cast into the hopper and the s/n of 07670 stamped on the hopper. It has a 3 inch bore and 16 inch flywheels. The ignition system was stripped and the ignitor was drilled for a spark plug. Any information on the ignition system, the original color scheme, or other information on this engine would be greatly appreciated. Bill Dicker-son, 9687 SE 48th Ave., Runnells, IA 50237.
32/3/4 David Bradley Tractor Q. What are the correct colors for the David Bradley garden tractor? LaVerne Meyer, 6122 S. 230 E., Rensselaer, IN 47978.
A. They are DuPont Signal Green 43073 and Red, DuPont N1488 or 72155.
32/3/5 Stover Engine Q. I have a 3 HP Stover engine with a frozen piston. Do you have hints on freeing it up, and other necessary work before reassembling? Are there any handbooks on rebuilding these engines? Any information would be appreciated. Jim Wilhelmson, PO Box 80216, Goleta, CA 93118.
A. It all depends on how badly the piston is stuck. Many times, by standing the engine on end and keeping the piston and cylinder anointed with penetrating oil, kerosene, or even brake fluid, enough will soak past the piston so that it can be driven out. Use a wooden block nearly as big as the cylinder hole for a driver, or put a heavy metal plate over the piston head. Don't pound or press on the piston head. For pistons badly stuck, we've seen and heard of all kinds of ways to get them free, and in fact, we've tried a few. Usually it involves heating the outside of the cylinder so it will expand a few thousandths and relieve its vise-like grip on the piston.
32/3/6 Unidentified Marine Engine Q. See the photos of what appears to be a marine engine. Usually though, marine engines have at least some brass; this has none. The carb is missing and there is no apparent governing linkage to control the speed. It has also been suggested that this might be some sort of automotive engine.
Any information would be appreciated. Dale Boss, 7195 Colon? Rd., La Mesa, CA 91941-4565.
32/3/7 Detroit Stationary & MarineQ. See photos 7A and 7B of a Detroit stationary engine, 2HP, and built in 1909. It has the familiar Detroit low pressure fuel injector designed by Benjamin Middleditch. The nameplate reads: Detroit Engine Works - Builders of Stationary Engines. In the book, American Gas Engines, you note that Detroit likely also built marine engines.
Photos 7C and 7D show a Detroit marine engine, with the plate reading: Detroit Engine Works - Builders of Marine Engines. With the exception of an identical ignition system, the engines are otherwise quite dissimilar.
I have noticed that Middleditch must have lent the rights for his fuel delivery system to quite a few manufacturers, notably Bessemer, Detroit, Middleditch, and others.
The Detroit marine engine does not use this system. Instead, it uses a Lunkenheimer mixer with an inlet valve limiter that would act like a throttle does in a regular carburetor. There is no provision for mounting the fuel injection system either, but like the stationary, the marine lubricates the piston directly with an oiler.
Does anyone know when Detroit actually built their marine engines?
Can anyone tell me the location of the s/n on the marine engines? On the stationary, it is on the end of the crankshaft, beneath the brass end cap.
Does anyone know the HP of the marine engine? I think it is about 2 or 3 HP.
Does anyone else have a Detroit marine engine?
Please address responses to: Andrew K. Mackey, 26 Mott Place, Rockaway, NJ 07866.
32/3/8 Kinkade Garden TractorQ. Could anyone tell me the correct color scheme for my Kinkade, s/n 16055. I would also like to know when it was built, or any other information. Paul Rothermel, 184 St Rt 44, Hartville, OH 44632.
32/3/9 Unidentified Engine Q. See the photos of an unidentified inverted engine. It has a 4 x 7 inch bore and stroke, 30 inch flywheels, and engine height is 42 inches. It is throttle governed. There is a single governor weight in the flywheel. The carburetor and linkage is missing, and there are no casting numbers on the engine. Any information would be appreciated. Eugene DeCamp, 646 N Ocotillo St., Cottonwood, AZ 86326.
A. We can't be sure from the photos, but there's a similarity to the Webster. However, we're sure that one or more of our readers can give a positive ID on this one!
32/3/10 Sandwich Engine Q. I have an 8 HP Sandwich engine, it uses a Wico EK magneto, and has s/n F187l9. Can anyone tell me when it was made? Edward Decker, HC60, Box 56M, Pineville, MO 64856.
A. The Wico EK became popular in the early 1920s. Sandwich was taken over by New Idea in the early 1930s. That narrows it down into at least a ten year period. Since gas engines above 6 horsepower were in a rapid production decline by 1930, the odds probably fall toward the mid-1920s for your engine. However, there are no s/n records for these engines, so there's no way to know for sure.
32/3/11 Fox Marine Engine Q. See the two photos of a 14 HP Fox marine engine, made by Dean Mfg. Co., Newport, Kentucky. Any information on this engine would be appreciated. Glen Gerlach, 99 Simon-Miller Rd., Wheelers-burg, OH 45694. Can anyone be of help?
32/3/12 Perkins Vertical Q. I have just acquired a 1 HP Perkins vertical sideshaft engine. It was stored in a barn for many years and rust has taken its toll on many of the small parts. Perhaps someone might have some information on this engine; it is s/n 1977Any help would be greatly appreciated. Don Green, PO Box 618, Allyn, WA 98524-0618.
32/3/13 Samson Engines Most of us are aware of the Samson gas engines built in Stockton, California. The same company built the Samson Sieve Grip tractors, and eventually sold out to General Motors.
John Minor Kroyer was the man behind all this. GM purchased Samson Iron Works in 1918 and this left Kroyer with a pocketful of money.
Kroyer started a new company in San Pedro, California, called Kroyer Motor Company. Here he designed and built a unique four-wheel-drive tractor called the Wizard 4-Pull.
I am very interested in seeing one of these units and would like to correspond with anyone knowing of one, or who has one. I have some information to share on the company, but not much! Lester Bowman, 2440 Thomas St., Ceres, CA 95307.
32/3/14 Corn Shellers Q. See the photos of two com shellers I have rebuilt and need help to identify. The sheller on the left has a 26 inch flywheel with part no. 1780. Where you put the corn in is part no. 734 and where the cobs come out is no. 735. The sheller on the left has a 23 inch flywheel, part no. B100, where the corn goes in is no. B12 and where the cobs come out is B84 . It uses a round belt for the fan. Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thomas Kruse, 6232 Cedar Lane, Miamisburg, OH 45342.
A. Without spending perhaps several hours looking, we wouldn't venture a guess on the pedigree of your shellers. However, we're presently working on a book tentatively entitled, American Agricultural Implements, and among many other things there are sure to be a great many different corn shellers illustrated. At present though, our data is in various stages of work, and to go through it for identification purposes would greatly upset the book assembly process.
32/3/15 New Way Engines Dick Hamp, 1772 Conrad Ave., San Jose, CA 95124-4501 sends along some information on New Way engines. In the adjacent illustration, a New Way is mounted atop a Deere-Hoover potato digger. It's always interesting to see the new things that pop up continually within the hobby. By the way, Hoover built the potato digger and Deere sold it within their organization as the Deere-Hoover.
DEERE-HOOVER POTATO DIGGER Powered by The 'NEW-WAY' TWIN AIR-COOLED) ENGINE
32/3/16 Fairbanks-Morse Q. J have a Fairbanks-Morse 1926 Type H electric plant, and would like to restore it, but have no manual. Unfortunately, the nameplate is also missing. A picture of this engine is shown on page 122 of Wendel's Fairbanks-Morse: 100 Years of Engine Technology. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Don Green, PO Box 618, Allyn, WA 98524-0618.
A. Despite a considerable file of F-M material, we have nothing on the Type H light plant; perhaps someone can be of help.
32/3/17 Gray Engine Q. See the photos of what I believe to be a 1 HP Gray engine. The only markings are 1H2 on the head and 29 on the side of the water hopper. I'm sure the former owner painted it as shown in the photos, but I don't know if the colors and striping layout are as original. Can you advise proper color, striping, etc. for this one? John O'Leary, 651 Union School Rd., Mount Joy, PA 17552.
A. Without a photo of the governor side, we're not sure that this is a Gray, although we believe it to be. We have the Gray stationary engines listed as DuPont RS903 red, but we can't tell you for sure about the striping. Perhaps other GEM readers can be of help.
32/3/18 IHC Type M Q. I have a 1 HP International Type M engine, s/n W15126, and would like to know the correct color and when it was built. John Brenden, 232 Tiffany Ave., Central Point, OR 97502.
A. We have DuPont 84155 Adirondack Green listed as the comparable color match. In checking the s/n lists, ours shows AW111502 as the last number, built in 193 2. However, the AB and AX kerosene models show AX13178 to AX16091 as 1930. The AX prefix was for a Wico magneto. AX and AB engines were kerosene models, while the AA and AW models were gasoline engines. This is easily determined, since the gasoline models have but one needle valve on the mixer, while there are either two or three on the kerosene style.
32/3/19 Myers Bulldozer Q. I have a Myers Bulldozer pump with a 3x4 inch bore and stroke. How many strokes per minute should this pump run, and what type of oil should be used in the gear case? I intend to belt it to a 1 HP engine.
Also can you tell me when the following two engines were built: International ModelM, 3 HP, s/n32633 and 1H Model M, s/n W18070. George Clouse, 2434 Shultz Rd., Hastings, Ml 49058.
A. To answer the last question first, the 3 HP was made in 1920, and for the 1 HP, we don't have serial numbers that high.
The Bulldozer pump of 3 x 4 size was rated at 70 rpm or 140 strokes per minute, with a usual speed of 60 rpm. We would suggest a good combination gear lubricant. Motor oil is too light.
32/3/20 Geiser Company Q. Where is all the equipment that was built by Geiser Mfg. Co., Waynesboro, Pennsylvania? I am working with the Geiser family on the history of the company ; there is one question they ask me, 'Is there much of the equipment left?' In talking with other people we would like to know where it is. What we would like to have is information on anything built by Geiser, such as steam engines, threshers, gas engines, tractors, sawmills. We are also looking for any literature or information on the company. If anyone can be of help, please contact: William M. Rohrer, 12025 Steven Ave., Smithsburg, MD 21783.
32/3/21 Clinton Generator Q. See the photo of a Clinton 'Panther' engine with a generator on it. I would like to know if the generator was made by Clinton or some other generator company, and would also like to know the voltage of the generator. Any information would be appreciated. Michael E. Schultz, 1650 Schust Rd., Sagninaw, MI 48604.
32/3/22 Witte Engine Q. Previously I wrote you concerning a Witte 2 HP engine on which I could find no numbers. You once answered an inquiry, noting that among other places, the end of the crankshaft might be a location. On my engine, I turned up either 70111 or 79111 on the end of the crankshaft! Can these numbers help me determine when this engine was built? Joseph L. Betz, 3581 Falmouth Drive, Library, PA 15129.
A. Either way, we would say that your engine was made in 1926.
32/3/23 d-Fab Engineering Q. See the photo of a small crawler with a front end loader. The nameplate reads: d-Fab Engineering, Div. of Fruehauf Corp., Route 202, Montgomeryville, Pa. It is a Model 37 W.G. 7HT, s/n 6488, 5600#, Wisconsin V-4 engine, 48 inches wide and 56 inches long.
A. So far as we can tell it was made in the late 1940s or early 1950s. There was a dealer in northern Illinois. Ours has a front loader, but we understand they could also be furnished with a dozer blade and a back-hoe. The transmission is driven by a hydraulic motor and it is steered by hydraulic power brakes. There are no pedals, just hydraulic levers and valves. Any assistance regarding this machine would be greatly appreciated. William R. Walters, 1707 Northwood Court, Valparaiso, IN 46383.
32/3/24 John Deere Problem Q. I have a Deere Model E engine, 1 HP. It will run only with the choke ? to closed, and then it runs nice. The needle valve is not plugged, and the hole through the tube is vertical. Also I have tried three different check valves in the fuel tank, and I replaced and ground the valves. A friend of mine has the same trouble, and at a show last summer I saw one running with the choke shutter partially closed. Does anyone have an answer? Raymond Tjarks, 1505 E. 1st St., Redfield, SD 57469.
A. Usually it's a process of elimination to find the problem. We note in your letter that you've replaced check valves, checked the line for blockage, etc. Also, you have replaced and ground the valves. That's one area that's often overlooked, because leakage around the intake valve stem can cause problems like the one you're having. We'll defer to the John Deere collectors on this one; perhaps there's a simple answer to the problem.
32/3/25 Unidentified Engine Q. Recently we came across an engine, or parts of an engine, with the following facts:
1. The engine is a sideshaft, with the shaft on the left side as viewed from the front.
2. We are missing the block. It is believed to be inside a metal building which has a six inch tree growing through the doors and blocking the entrance. At least we hope to one day gain entrance; the new owners of the building have agreed when they get around to opening it up. It is further believed that there is an old tractor in the building as well.
3. The crankshaft is 1? inches in diameter; the rod is cast iron with an offset lower half of the bearing which is connected to the crank with a single bolt and hinge arrangement.
4. The head and cylinder are cast in one piece. The valves are stuck and are installed through removable plugs on the top of the head like a Lister tank cooled engine.
5. The flywheel is very heavy, 6 spokes, and 20 inches in diameter with a 2? inch face and outer rim thickness of over three inches.
6. The valves are mechanically operated with roller cam followers on both ends.
7. The engine has a bore and stroke of about 3 x5 inches.
Possibly this engine is of British origin since it was found not too far from the fishing ports at Deltaville, Virginia
Any help on this one would be greatly appreciated. Charles Franklin, 28 Sarfan Drive, Hampton, VA 23664.
32/3/26 Freeing a Stuck Engine Q. I've heard that you can use a grease gun to push the piston out of a stuck engine. Is this true? John Stansberry, Box 2808, Ketchum, ID 83340.
A. Sometimes. Obviously, there mustn't be a lot of leakage over corroded valve seats and the like. Assuming the head is removable, a heavy metal plate can be used in its stead, and once the cylinder is packed solid with grease, the plate can be installed, the grease gun plugged into a zerk, and let the fun begin. However, a grease gun is capable of tremendous pressure, so let's not get too rambunctious and spoil things.
32/3/27 Information Needed Q. What is the year built of the following engines?
McCormick-DeeringType M, 1HP, s/nA100274.
Associated Hired Man, s/n 109812. Maynard Rindahl, Route 2, Box 119, Fertile, MN 56540.
A. The McCormick-Deering is 1932; there are no numbers for Associated engines.
32/3/28 A Miscellany Q. See photos 28 A and 28B of an unidentified engine. It is all cast aluminum with a 2? x 1? inch bore and stroke. It uses a Tillotson 13927 carburetor and a Bendix-Scintilla Mode! Kl-19 magneto. The engine has a one-piece crankcase with a pipe plug in bottom to gain access to the connecting rod. Any information would be appreciated.
Photo 28C shows an engine by Gladden Products Corp., Glendale, California. It is Model BB-1-7727, 3 HP, with a 2 x 3 inch bore and stroke. Any information on this engine would be appreciated.
Photo 28D shows three Cauffiel Clipper engines. To the left is a Cauffiel Model 000, the second is a Clipper Model 1250, and a Clipper Cauffiel Motor. These engines were made either in Temperance or Detroit, Michigan. Any information would be appreciated. Michael E. Schultz, 1650 Schust Rd., Saginaw, MI 48604.
32/3/29 Reo Engine Q. I have a Reo Type H engine with a Carter Model N carburetor, and would like to hear from anyone with parts or information on same. Randy M. Brooks, RR 1 Box 203, Greenfield, TN38230.
32/3/30 Hallett Diesel Pursuant to ye olde Reflector's recent query on a Hallett diesel engine, we heard from one other Hallett owner, Mr. Neal Matheson, 1828 E. 6th Ave., Mesa, AZ 85204. He writes that he had found no information either; also that he has not started his engine yet, but is saving this project for awhile.
32/3/31 Massey-Harris Q. Could anyone provide information such as year built and the paint color for a Massey Harris Model R30, 4 HP engine, s/n 71074? Any information would be appreciated. Ronald H. Winship Jr., 115 River Rd., Windham, ME 04062.
A. The R-30 is the clue here . . . this engine was built by Cushman for Massey-Harris. At this point in time we're not sure if they used DuPont 018 Massey-Harris Red or not, although we assume so. There is no s/n information.
32/3/32 White Lily Engine Q. I have a White Lily engine, s/n 523 and 2 HP, made by White Lily Washer Co., Davenport, Iowa; also made by Schmidt Bros. Engine Works, Davenport, Iowa. It is shown on page 449 of American Gas Engines. Any information on this engine would be appreciated. Robert K. Ashcraft, Rt 2, Box 358, Mannington, WV 26582.
32/3/33 Information Needed Q. When were the following engines made?
Economy Improved Model Gasoline Engine, #4192. There is no horsepower stamped on the engine.
Witte 6 HP, s/n 2293 (the nameplate is damaged, and this is all that is legible).
Harold L. Mathieu, RR2, Box 279, Chassell, MI 49916.
A. We can't tell you about the Economy. Possibly the full s/n is stamped somewhere on the engine, including the end of the crankshaft. With the complete number we can give you further information.
32/3/34 Witte Information Q. About a year ago I picked up an old engine that the owner thought was a 'steam engine.' All the wooden parts were rotted away, the pistons and the valves were stuck, the head and carburetor were both cracked, and I made a new rocker arm pin, crank, and many other parts. (See the photo.) This is a Witte 5 HP engine, s/n 87810. What is the year built, and what is the correct color? Fred A. Hodge, 16924 Freestad Road, Arlington, WA 98223.
A. Your engine was made in 1924. The correct color is DuPont 5204 Forest Green.
32/3/35 Sattley EngineQ. I have a Sattley 1 HP engine, s/n 65410. What is the year built and the correct color?
Also have an unknown engine. The connecting rod is marked J.R. 1 HP. Other parts are marked J. R. also. American Gas Engines does not show a J. R. engine. Can anyone identify it? Barry Lutes, 1500 Abilene Dr., Broomfield, CO 80020.
A. Early Sattley gasoline engines were black, but the later ones were DuPont 7498 Green. There is no s/n info on these.
A photo of your J.R. engine would be most helpful, but lacking one, can anyone be of help?
32/3/36 John Deere Q Rich Howard, Hysham, MT 59038 sends along a photo of his recently restored John Deere D. He writes: It is not quite perfect, but isn't too bad the engine was completely rebuilt with new block, turned pistons, reconditioned head, new valves, etc., etc. Transmission and rear end overhauled; the magneto is the later type with automatic impulse, but still looking for an original with manual advance of 1927 or early 1928 vintage.
32/3/37 Rome, New York Q. See the photos of a tractor I bought to renovate. The only information I have is that it was built in Rome, New York. It has a No. 2 Novite motor and a W. C. Lupe 3R3 transmission. There are no identifiable names or model numbers. Any information on this tractor, the engine, or components would be greatly appreciated. Robert Lathrop, 89 Bowen Hill Rd., Cambridge, NY 12816.
32/3/38 Fairbanks-Morse Story Q In 1979 I got a Fairbanks-Morse 3 HP Model ZC engine made in 1948. It ran nice as long as it was running fast, but at an idle it would miss, and would even stop. I checked the engine from end to end, the magneto, the timing, valve timing, check valve in gasoline line, compression, and tried six different kinds of plugs.
I have a 1930 Ford Model A, and it uses Champion C-4 plugs. One day I took one of the C-4 plugs and put it in the 3 HP engine. It didn't miss a stroke. After an hour or so, I put one of the previous plugs I was using back in the engine, and it went back to poor running, just like before. Needless to say, I have run Champion C-4 plugs in this engine ever since.
This fall I lay ed out half a dozen different plugs on the bench, including a C-4. I noticed that the C-4 was the only one where the outside electrode fired against the side of the center electrode. All the others fired against the end. I then took an AC plug, rebent the outside electrode so it fired against the side, put this in the 3 HP, and it ran just as it should.
My conclusion is that the side-firing electrode is what made the difference. I've said it before, and I'll say it again. ..one is never too old to learn something new! William C. Kuhl, 464 S 5th St., Sebewaing, MI 48759-1559.
To this we add . . . don't be afraid to experiment a little. In some of our experiments, we once modified a plug by extending the side and center electrodes an inch or so into the combustion chamber, and this made all the difference in the world. For ye olde Reflector, the cleanup is a dull and boring process, but a necessary one. It's the tinkering later on that's fun, when you can get an engine to knock off one lick after another without a miss or a whimper.
32/3/39 Waterloo Boy Q. See 39A and 39B of an engine I believe to be a 1912 Waterloo Boy 2 HP air-cooled engine. I would like to know the colors of the original engine, and would appreciate hearing from anyone with pictures, information, dimensions, etc. of a completed engine. I have an ignitor from my 3 HP that will fit, but many other parts are missing. Did this engine have battery ignition?
Also see 39C of a small burr mill, with the only identifying marks being F1, F2, F3, etc. I would like to know more about this mill, including the approximate power required. Dennis L. Buswell, 7625 College Park Drive, Brooklyn Park, MN 55445.
A. Perhaps someone can provide a positive id on both the engine and the mill, and/or provide further information.
32/3/40 Information Needed Q. Can you supply the year built for the following?
Economy 1, s/n 77307 Deere 1, s/n 339766 IHCM, 1, A6579 Robert O. Bergstrom, 3701 Hawk Rd., White Swan, WA 98952.
A. We don't have specific data on Economy; the Deere was made in 1936, and the Type M in 1924.
32/3/41 Worthington Engine Q. See the photo of my 1 HP Worthington engine, s/n 47850. When was it built, and what is the correct color scheme? William Ahner, 2253 Mountain Rd., Slatington, PA 18080-3425.
A. At the top of page 566 in American Gas Engines is the approximate striping scheme for the Worthington engines. The striping was a medium red, applied over a dark green, comparable to DuPont 74713. There are no s/n lists for Worthington.
32/3/42 Deutsche Stationar Motoren Q . Regarding the above title that you mentioned in a recent issue, can you provide further particulars on this new book? Richard Zwierzynski, 4301 4th Ave., Koppel, PA 16136.
A. This 176 page book is entirely in color, and represents over 40 different companies. The text is entirely in German, but this is greatly offset by the beautiful photography. We suggest you contact the author, Armin Bauer, at Top Agrar, Magazin fur Agrartechnik, Postfach 7847, 48042 Munster, Germany.
32/3/43 A-C Rock Crusher Q. Can anyone provide me with further information on this Allis-Chalmers 7 x 12 jaw crusher? The crusher feeds into a vertical bucket elevator, and it in turn feeds into a hammer mill. The outfit has a 1912 patent date. It was built by Allis-Chalmers Mfg. Co., Milwaukee, Wisconsin. The complete unit weighs 6,600 pounds. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jim Moffett, Modesto, IL 62667.
A. Allis-Chalmers was a major manufacturer of rock crushers, with this unit actually being very small compared to some of the huge gyratory crushers. In fact, A-C built some of the largest crushers in the world, and shipped them to all corners of the earth. Can anyone be of help on this unit?
32/3/44 American Farm Machy. Co. Q. I am attempting to locate any information concerning a small garden tractor made by American Farm Machinery Co. at Minneapolis. I have seen the Suburbanite which they made, but was looking for information on additional models, such as the Kinkade. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Ron Dicus, W 17110 Bowie Rd., Spokane, WA 99204.
32/3/45 Johnston Mower Q. I recently acquired a Johnston all steel Lawn Patrol mower made at Ottumwa, Iowa. I've also seen Johnston mowers manufactured at Brookhaven, Mississippi. Is this the same company? Also, my mower has a Continental engine made at Detroit, Michigan. The book, American Gas Engines, lists Continental Motors Corp. at Muskegon, Michigan. Is this the same company? Any information on this mower would be greatly appreciated. Robert M. Witham, RR 1, Box 159C, Alton, NH 03809.
A. The Continental is the same, but we can't tell you anything about Johnston. Can anyone be of help?
32/3/46 Information Needed Q. Can anyone provide assistance on the following?
Ideal Power Lawn Mower Co. engine, No.J2387,Pat.June29, 1920.
Sears 500-95641, Series 10 8, small engine, vertical, air cooled, pedal start.
Monarch 1.34 HP, Model TA4, #12356, Made by Royal Engine Co., Saginaw, Michigan. This is a single-Cylinder, hopper cooled engine mounted on a steel truck and powers two diagphragm pumps with walking beams.
Any information on any of these engines would be greatly appreciated. Reginald A. LaRosa, 32 Terrace St., Montpelier, VT 05602.
32/3/47 Adams Grader Q. I need the diameter and width for the front wheels on an Adams Square Deal Leaning Wheel Grader, #2C, s/n 7051; would also like to know when it was built. Ray Fisher, 1340 W. Glenn, Tucson, AZ 85705.
32/1/11 Standard Twin Garden Tractors Gerald B. Lombard, 5120 Belcrest Ave., Bakersfield, CA 93309-4705 provides us with some valuable data on the Standard Twin. For instance, from 1934 to 1938 Standard used the last two digits of the year for the first two characters of the serial number. Beginning in 1939 they inserted a zero between the two digits, thus 309 would by 1939. The 'C' identifies the tractor as a Standard Twin to differentiate it from other tractors built by the same people, such as Walsh, Monarch, Viking, Kinkade, and Suburban.
Regarding colors, the castings, engine, clutch, clutch housing and gear cases, the fan shroud, and the handle bars are painted blue similar to Rustoleum 2125 Deep Blue. The tool bar/ gauge wheels assembly and the fuel tank assembly are painted black. The large wheels, air cleaner, fuel tank, and control lever for steering the tool bars are similar to Rustoleum 2163 Safety Red. The wheel lugs, axles, carburetor, fuel filter and fuel line are unpainted.
31/12/3 Vaughn Motor Co. William W. Smith, 22573 Old 44 Dr., Palo Cedro, CA 96073 writes that he has an engine exactly like the one pictured, and it was made by Vaughn Motor Co., Portland, Oregon.
31/9/15 Hoosier EngineWilliam D. Miller, 2915 Hilltop Ct., Anderson, IN 46013 writes that he heard from two people regarding his query, and has learned that his unidentified engine is a Hoosier made by Flint & Walling at Kendallville, Indiana.
Photo MM-1 shows a 1/5 scale of a 5 HP Jacob Haisch Chanticleer engine as made at DeKalb, Illinois, in 1912. Haisch also made the same line of engines for Appleton Co. and for the Rock Island Plow Co.
The model is a hit-and-miss, ignitor fired, and has a 1? x 1? inch bore and stroke with 6 inch flywheels. As with all my ignitor fired engines, the points are made from tungsten. I have it governed to 475 (low) and 550 rpm (high). James B. May, 808 Elm St., Sandwich, IL 60548.
Marvin Hedberg, 52200 Fairfield Ave., Rush City, MN 55069 sends along several nice photos. MM-2 is a M from the 7 Mountains kit, and MM-3 is a pump and pump jack built from a Jim Sodergren kit. MM-4 shown Marvin and Margit Hedberg on a tandem cart behind a 1952 George garden tractor at Anderson's Rock Creek Relics, Rock Creek, Minnesota, in September 1996. Marvin says he has many extra attachments for this little tractor.
This writer has always been fascinated by history. Back in the 1950s, Oxford University Press put together A History of Technology. Our four volume set goes from the beginning of time up to 1850. Since some of this is rather uninteresting (downright boring) it has always puzzled me why these volumes are so terribly expensive (you can find them only at antiquarian book shops, and then only rarely). Anyway, Volume 4 covers the Industrial Revolution from 1750 to 1850. This is a very interesting period because it provides the backdrop for virtually everything that has happened since then.
Another area of history is what we now call oral history; those interesting stories, tales, and legends that come down from generation to generation. For example, my dad used to talk about how his dad had to sit sideways on a corn planter and trip the drop lever while his older brother drove the team. As the story went, they took a bobsled and made marks in the ground so the guy working the trip lever knew when to do his job. Before the days of check-wire, that's how it was done. While I never doubted the story, I recently came across an old wood engraving that shows precisely how this was done. A sled was used to mark out the corn rows, and while the driver attempted to drive in a straight line, the poor fellow sitting crossways (usually a kid) got the glorious job of tripping the lever every time he came to a cross mark in the dirt. Farmers of those days worked from dawn till dusk, so can you imagine sitting on that tiny little seat and working that lever 80 rods up the field, 80 rods back, back and forth all day long? The poor chap probably saw those black lines in the dirt during his sleep for weeks afterward! How things have changed! How many kids (or adults) would consent to this job in today's world? It's tough enough to get anyone to carry the trash bags to the curb once a week!