| December/January 1990

Stover Engine


Samuel Spencer

25/12/12 Stover Engine Q. I have three Stover engines, and am puzzled by the paint scheme. The first one is a KA model. The flywheels and con rod cover were red, with a black cylinder head. The push rod, firing mechanism, and gears were black. The second KA had a green body, red flywheels, con rod, and splash shield. The head, push rod, firing mechanism, and gears are green. The CT2 model has a green body, red flywheels, black cylinder head, push rod, and firing mechanism. Can you tell me what is the correct color scheme? Samuel Spencer III, 1285-A Lovett Rd., Orange Park, FL 32073.

A. As we pointed out at the beginning of this column, color shades varied from time to time. With Stover (and others), the entire color scheme varied, not only from year to year, but oftentimes, from engine to engine. In this particular instance, we would suggest going with a replacement of the original color scheme, assuming of course that these engines have not been repainted to suit someone's fancy. We have seen Stover engines with all the variations you mention, plus others not indicated. Much of the difference apparently depended on the painters and the mood they were in whenever your engines came off the assembly line. A footnote though-most of the 'K' and 'CT' Stover engines were of the dark and muddy Brewster Green variety, with some occasional use of black.

25/12/13 Stickney Vertical Q. I am trying to restore a Harvard engine, built by Stickney. Those familiar with this engine will see from my sketch that it is somewhat different. So, if anyone can supply information on the missing parts, this will really be appreciated. This engine is very interesting in that it uses five different valves to control fuel, air, and exhaust. In addition there is a fuel metering valve and another rod-operated fuel valve, for seven in all. With all this complicated system, I can hardly wait to see it work. Tim's Tractor Service, 4010 Buena Vista Drive, Paso Robles, CA 93446.

A. Although we can't be of any real help on this one, we urge anyone with any information to contact Tim at the above address. When it comes to sheer complicated mechanisms, this one takes the cake, and we too, would like to see it run!

25/12/14 IHC E4A Magneto Q. On my E4A magneto, the coil is mounted in the armature. Now the goo inside is starting to leak out and gets between the armature and the magnets. Is there anything that can be done? Also, I think that DuPont 27625 charcoal gray is a closer match than the colors listed in the September, 1988 GEM listing. Glenn Terminelli, 162 Snyders Rd., Phillipsburg, NJ08865.

A. The sad fact is that we have never heard of anything to stop this deterioration of the insulating material. Of course, it is helped in its exit by the centrifugal force of the spinning armature. Once this begins, there seems to be little chance that anything will do except for a new coil. Sealing the outside merely postpones the inevitable, since the loss of the insulating compound allows moisture to enter, and soon a percentage of the coil is shorted out. Fortunately, modern coil making methods use insulating compounds not subject to this type of deterioration. Regarding the IHC Gray, see the new listing at the beginning of this column.