Facts About Belt Lacing

| December/January 1990

Dan Lee, Rt 1, 1015 'A' Road Nine NW, Quincy, Washington 98848, Reprinted from August, 1923, Farm Mechanics

Few farmers know how to correctly lace a belt. While most of the belts that are laced are not laced right, they serve the purpose for a short time. But sooner or later the lacing tears out or the holes in the belt give way and much loss of time is the result, with often a new belt being required. If the old one had been laced as it should have been it would have done service for a much longer time.

To go into the different methods used to lace belts, with an account of their good and bad points, would require too much space and such a technical discussion would not interest the average person. So we are showing a few sketches of the easiest and most widely used methods of lacing belts with a few remarks on the general practice of belt lacing.

By following the lacing as it runs from one hole to another it will not require very much practice before the average person can duplicate the methods shown. Numbers 1, 2 and 3 are used where the belt is simply connecting up two pulleys, whether driven or idling, while Number 4 is for use where the belt runs over a very small pulley or where both sides come in contact with a pulley.

We have not attempted to show any of the complicated knots used in locking the ends of lace, but it will be found that by simply running the ends through a series of extra holes, as shown in sketches 2 and 4, and then cutting a notch in the slightly protruding end of the lace, it will hold indefinitely. Burning the end of the lace with a match makes it as hard as iron and will assist in pushing it as hard as iron and will assist in pushing it through the holes. If done before the lacing is started it will also keep the ends in place after the joint is finished.

The first thing to do in starting to make a splice is to cut the ends of the belt perfectly square. This can be done by laying a try square along the belt and marking off with a pencil. When cutting off be sure that a clean cut is made with no nicks on the edge that will start the belt to tearing. For leather belts the holes should be at least one-half inch from the edge and they may be put in with an ordinary punch, but on rubber or canvas belts two rows of holes should be used at least three-quarters of an inch apart. The holes never should be punched, but should be put in with a sharp pointed awl. The idea of this is to keep from breaking the woven strands of which he belt is made and on which it depends for strength.


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