1148 La Casa Avenue, Yuba City, California 95991
Some time ago, after having finished restoring an engine, after much hard work and fussing in the hope of getting everything just right, I was talking to one of our club members at one of our gas-ups.
He was showing a beautifully restored engine with every detail finished to perfection and mounted on varnished beams and a nice set of wheels.
However, he did not seem to be as happy with his project as you would expect, and he went on to tell me that he had worked so hard and worried so much about getting everything just right that he had burned himself out and he was not going to restore any more engines.
Hearing that, and considering my own feelings about some of my projects, made me wonder if some of us might take it all too seriously and maybe it was time to lighten up and have some fun with it.
And that was the inspiration for the Nori Parcs Engine. Nori Parcs read backwards reads 'scrap iron,' and that is what I built, an engine from the scrap and junk that was lying around the place.
I started with a rusty piece of 2'x2'x?' angle iron about 15' long. On the edge and near the end of this I welded a 5' length of 1? pipe at a 90 degree angle and braced it solid. Into each end of this I drove a roller bearing that accepted a ?' shaft. This is the crankshaft.
The flywheel is an 8' diameter x 7/8' thick piece of solid steel that was scrap from a steel fabricating plant. I mounted this on the faceplate of the lathe and trued it up and drilled the center hole to be a tight drive in fit for the ?' shaft.
I locked the shaft and flywheel together by drilling and tapping a 3/8' hole at the edge of the shaft and screwing in an Allen head set screw.
The cylinder is a 1?' pipe 6' long with a ?' tee welded on the end. The tee has the side cut out to open it up to the cylinder.
The valve units are made up on ?' pipe tees and the valves are turned down from Briggs & Stratton valves.
There is an angle iron about 3' long welded on edge to the bottom of the cylinder. This in turn is welded to the 2'x2' angle iron in such a way as to properly align it with the flywheel.
All welding on the cylinder had to be done before boring and honing to avoid distortion.
The piston is from an old air compressor turned down to fit and with a lot of excess metal removed to lighten.
The conrod is a piece of ?' thin wall conduit with the wrist pin end of the original conrod brazed to one end, and a ring which is a drive in fit for the crankpin ball bearing brazed to the other end.
The crankpin is drilled and tapped into the flywheel in position to give the correct stroke.
There are four ?' holes drilled in the flywheel near the crankpin to counterbalance the weight of the crankpin and conrod.
The mixer is a 2?' long piece of 3/8 brass pipe with a throttle butterfly and venturi and a mixing valve.
The most interesting feature of this engine is that it is a gearless four cycle. I got the idea for this from the book, Internal Fire, by Lyle Cummings.
In his book Mr. Cummings tells how in 1885, in Germany, the engineers Daimler and Maybach used this system on the first motorcycle engine.
I bolted a 7' dia. x 5/8 thick piece of nylon to the inside face of the flywheel, then I laid out the path of the groove and free-handed it out with my router.
The follower will alternately take first the inside track and then cross over to the outside track.
When the follower crosses over to the outside track near the end of the power stroke it pulls on the rod to open the exhaust valve and then starts back inward in time to close the valve at the beginning of the intake stroke.
The ignition system consists of a piece of hardwood bolted to the 2'x2' angle iron close to and in alignment with the nylon wheel.
There is a small brass screw through the block near the top, with the head toward the nylon wheel, and there is a wire lead on the other end going to a battery.
There is another brass screw near the bottom of the block which holds a brass leaf spring that reaches up high enough to make contact with the upper screw head but normally stands about an 1/8' away.
There is an iron lug screwed to the nylon wheel in position to brush the brass leaf spring and close the circuit to fire the engine. The bottom screw has a lead going to the battery terminal of a buzz coil.
This is probably about the ugliest piece of junk that ever showed up at anybody's gas-up, and it has been interesting to see people's reaction when they ask me if it will really run and I start it up for them.
I would not say that it runs real great, but I have found that if I wear a glove on my left hand and hold it against the flywheel to put a fair load on it, it will steady down and chug along quite well.