smoke rings

Oats huller

John Rogowski

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Greetings to all our family members of Gas Engine Magazine! Hope you are all feeling well and perked up for the '81 shows-but I guess that goes without saying it, doesn't it? We have so much material for this issue, so I'll just go right into the letters as I do try to see they all get in, as soon as they hit my desk.

This letter includes compliments and questions which is really what makes up most of your Smoke Rings as you confer with each other on the topics most dear to you in furthering your hobby. BUDDY FORRER, Box 43, Somonauk, Illinois 60552 relates: 'I would like to compliment you on a very fine magazine and wish it came more often because the articles are very interesting and it gives some very good tips on how to work on the engines that were used long ago. Our family has about 40 engines ranging from a 3/4 HP Maytag to a 6-7 Fairbanks Morse.

Here is my question to the readers. We have a 4-5 HP Stover, model CT4, S.N. TD252234. This is the only Stover 4-5 HP that any of us have ever seen. I wonder if any readers could give me information on it. Would like to know the year and how many were made and wish anyone would write me if they have a similar engine.'

JIM WOOLEY, 7959 Lava Court, La Mesa, California 92047 is seeking information on a Kalamazoo Railway Supply Company railroad speeder car engine. The name Kalamazoo is cast into the engine below the air-cooled radiator and the serial number is 16032 on the crankcase. (To Jim and other writers-if you need parts, or any item that can be bought, I cannot print them in this column. That must go in classified ads at the back of the book at 20? per word.)

'The old iron collectors are a fine group of people,' says DARVIN E. JAHNKE, Box 21, Rochert, Minnesota 56578. 'With the help of a lot of good people that read GEM, I have been able to identify my engine pictured on page 15 of Jan.-Feb. GEM. It is a 1? HP Sattley throttle governed. Thanks to everyone that wrote.'

A newcomer to our family, KEVAN STAFNE, 602 Sawyer Street, Lead, South Dakota 57754, sends this: 'I would like to know if any of your readers would know if a Fairbanks-Morse 5 HP style D had a cast iron sub-base or did it have wooden skids? Also the age of this engine.

I have been collecting engines for only about a year but have really caught the fever. My first engine was a 1? to 2? LA International which I bought at a second-hand store.

I enjoy your magazine very much and am looking forward to hearing from your readers with information.'

RON COULSON, Box 96, Parson, British Columbia, Canada VOA 1L0 needs help restoring his Cushman (#44 or #77-don't know which is right) 8 HP twin. 'It is an impressive chunk of iron and brass. It is complete except for gas tank, water tank and spark coils. I have been having problems getting information on what these looked like. I don't even know the color scheme or how to operate the little beast.

Also, could you possibly give me a tip on how to remove two seized pistons from the block? The spark plug holes don't give much space to drive them from the top. The block has been in diesel oil for six months now and hitting the ends of the connecting rods with a plastic hammer hasn't brought any results. There seems to be very little rust in the head and no rust at all under the pistons. I don't want to damage the pistons or rods, so I shy away from trying to pull them.'

Next writing comes from FRANK LUTZE, 52625 Fayette, Rochester, Michigan 48063 and he says: 'I am a newcomer to the rewarding hobby of restoring engines and am in need of some help from a more experienced restorer. I have just finished a 3 HP McCormick-Deering and am working on a buzz saw that has been in the family for 70 years.

My next engine is where I need the help. Here are the specifications: bore 4?', stroke 8', crankshaft 1?' flywheel 26' with 2' face. The color appears to have been red. Many parts numbers begin with DB. This is a throttle-governed, mag/spark plug engine. Throttle rod runs under crankshaft and cylinder. This engine is similar to a Maynard. I would like to know make, color, etc. See want ads for additional needs.'

A note from one of our Gas Family members comes from JOE NIKODIM, El Dorado Springs, Route 1, Box 160, Missouri 64744: 'We are looking for some information concerning two Twin City tractors. We would like to find the year they were built and the original color if it was M.M. yellow or gray.

The first one is a Twin City GT serial number 160287 and the second one is Twin City 21-32 TTA serial number 1560A.

Would appreciate any help any of your readers could give us.

Since subscribing to the Gas Engine Magazine it has become part of our family. We do enjoy it very much.'

JOHN ELLAM, 26 Ridgetor Road, Woolton, Liverpool, England L25 6DQ is trying to date his Amanco (Associated) petrol engine which, he believes to be a Chore Boy No. 340631. (He'll be most appreciative for answers.)

'I'm looking for information on an engine made in Des Moines, Iowa; a Jansen. I think they were large, and not many manufactured says ART DICKEY, Peppertill Apts., Bld. 3, Apt. 80, 3816 106th, Des Moines, Iowa 50322.

Art continues: 'I see Ersa Williamson of 415 N. Franklin, Corydon, Iowa 50060 is still looking for data on a small 2 cycle water-cooled gas engine by the name of Gardner Motor, St. Louis, Missouri. We have been telling Ersa that he doesn't have such an engine, that it is only a dream.'

PAUL SAEGER, 10054 Georgetown Road, Louisville, Ohio 44641 is working on an Empire milker vacuum pump made by the Empire Milking Machine Company. He would like to know where the company was located and other details available. He also says he enjoys G.E.M. and that it has been helpful to him in restoring other engines.'

'I have two suggestions to the engine shows held annually all over the U.S.', writes PHILIP VAZZANA, 242 S. Poplar Street, Greenville, Mississippi 38702. Phone 601-332-0788.

'Over the past several years I have attended engine shows in the southern region of our country. Last summer, I ventured north to the Grand Daddy Show at Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the local organization there sponsored a trading post; a place to sell or trade those spare parts that everybody is seeking. They had a tent with display tables filled with tagged parts. The tags give a description, price and owner of the part. Price included a 10% mark up for the local organization for operating expenses. I'm sure that enough volunteers could be recruited to operate the post. Most guys would love to hand around to learn about odd ball parts and engines.

I have never seen my second suggestion in action, but think it would be very helpful to a lot of people. It would simply be a large Wanted bulletin board, so that you could pin a note for an item you need. You might be contacted at the show or by mail later. This might help get those parts back on the engines where they are needed.' (Thanks Phil- both ideas merit some thought and action-take note Engine Shows!)

Please get in touch with ROBBIE BEAN, 310 4th Street, Whitesboro, Texas 76273. He owns a Hart-Parr 18-36, S.N. 87821. He would like to know what year this tractor was built. He would also like to see an article on pouring babbitt bearings.

THOMAS PAGE, 624 S. Center Avenue, Galva, Illinois 61434, phone 309-932-2851 would like to share his picture of his Eagle 6-B tractor with you. Tractor was made in Appleton, Wisconsin by Eagle Manufacturing Company during the years 1936 to1939. It has a 6 cylinder motor by Hercules. He would like to know how to tell the correct year of manufacture and any other important details.'

Want to meet a new friend interested in your same hobby, If so, take time and send JOHN DeBRULAN, Route 2, Box 114, Washington, West Virginia 26181 a note or give him a call at 304-863-5868. John writes: 'I am planning on visiting Albuquerque, New Mexico for two weeks during the month of June. I would like to hear from some collectors in that area and would like to visit same. I collect gas engines but am interested in most anything made before 1935. Hoping to hear from you.'

One of our younger members writes and needs some assistance from the more learned gas hobbyists: 'I have enjoyed GEM for almost nine years now. I am 15 and have been around engines all of my life. I decided to go to an engine show with my father and loved every minute of it. That's where we bought our first GEM magazine. The problem I have is a small one. What I need is information on paint detail, color, striping, etc. and on decals and color for two McCormick Deerings, model M, 1? HP and a Monitor Model VJ 1? HP pump jack engine. I would also like to learn how to identify the age of these engines by serial number. All help will be appreciated. (If you care to assist, write WILLIAM A. ANDERSON, 452 S. Benton, Marshall, Missouri 65340.)

PAUL NOAKE, 419 St. Clair, Watford, Ontario, Canada sends along some valuable information to the buddies of GEM as he sends letter and diagrams: 'The men of Engineland are always in need of gadgets to make restoration easy and I have come up with two such items that should not be kept to myself. Soooo here goes-No. 1, the old 'pull the taper key' routine. My method works like a charm and can be adapted to any key.

You get a 2' x 2' x 4' (see diagram #1) block of hardenable steel and drill and tap one end in about 2' to fit whatever slide hammer thread you have. Then have one block with a ?' and ?' square hole broached through in opposite directions ?' from the end opposite the threaded hole. Another block with ?' x 2' holes can. be made for smaller keys. Then a clamp made of ?' x 2' flat iron is made with three sets of holes for different sizes as shown. Two bars are placed around shaft and key puller block and bolted hand tight (see diagram #2). Okay, you say this does not work if there is no riser on the key. You are right, but here is a solution. Another block is made with a slight difference. Drill and tap 4 different size National fine holes in the end of it as shown 1/8, 1/4, 3/16, 3/8 (see diagram #3). The key then can be drilled and taped if the shaft is not too long and a stud put in or a stud can be welded to the key and threaded into the puller. Either way is just as good.

Now to No. 2 gadget! There is no task as frustrating as trying to get the end of a broken oiler pipe out of the bottom of a water hopper, right? Here's one solution:

Get one of these clamps for rope as shown then file out the bottom of the channel square. Put your tapered stud remover into the channel and bolt this clamp through a piece of ?' x 1?' or so flat iron (see diagram #4). Use whatever side fits best. Tap into the broken stub and turn out with a wrench on the bar (see diagram #5).

I realize there are other methods out there in Engineland, so let's hear what you have found out, guys. Here's hoping the Smoke Rings gets thicker.'

'Every month I look forward to the next issue of GEM, only to realize that you publish bi-monthly, and then when it finally arrives, I appreciate you even more. Needless to say, I read GEM cover to cover and compliment you on such a high quality magazine. I am writing to you now because I know that besides Engine Men being out there in the hobby, there are collectors, restorers, tinkerers and gatherers of information on old-time air compressors.

I am presently trying to restore a Kellogg Manufacturing Co. compressor model EM 1222 SS serial no. A17396, built around 1930 in Rochester, New York. I have the pump, two stage with a flat belt driven flywheel, a 30 gallon tank, the remains of a mechanically operated, diaphramatic pressure switch made by Penn and some of the fittings. Can anyone out there help me with technical information on this compressor especially with line fittings and pressure switch. This machine is too nice not to be running and I can provide photographs of what I have to anyone who feels they might be able to help with this project. I will promptly answer all letters. Write FRANCIS CARDAMONE, 93 Clinton Place, Staten Island, New York 10302.

You really are one GEM of a magazine and I will be a subscriber of yours for a long time to come.'

One of our members from England writes this time to tell us: 'Enclosed is a photo of one of my engines. The information I have is that it was made by the Stover Company of Freeport, Illinois although it carries a Pilter name-plate.

Could any of your readers help by giving me some idea of the age? S.N. YA 26052, low tension ignition battery and coil, no provision for a magneto. The packing nut is missing on the fuel pump. Can anybody tell me what size nut I need as I have been unable to find the correct one. I will be showing this engine at the Stationary Engine Magazine Rally at Longleaf, Wiltshire on June 20, and 21.' Write DAVID HUNT, Mount Pleasant, Bunville Hill, Winterslow, Salisbury, Wiltshere, England SP5 1PR.

'Something for the Smoke Rings, says ANDY GORTSEMA, Box 223, Fairfield, Washington 99012. 'Does anyone in our Engine Land have any information on the 2 cylinder opposed New Way engine? Also, the right color and the years they were made?'

W. L. CUNNINGHAM, 4225 78th Way N., St. Petersburg, Florida 33709 would like to hear from anyone that owns a Gilson 1?-2 Hp engine. See Want Ads. Also see picture 22-23 of Jan.-Feb. 1977 GEM picture B.

Get ready for a barrage of questions, men. WAYNE GRENNING, 318 Summit Street, Boonville, New York 13309 has many inquiries and is waiting for your answers:

'This past month I purchased a Fuller and Johnson 2 HP horizontal engine. There are a few questions I would like to ask all you GEM fans. What was the color of the engine? It appears that the original color was a light creamy green; is this the correct color? Was the engine pin striped? If so what color? The plate on front of the engine says Fuller & Johnson 2 HP, type N.B. serial number 94747. When was the approximate date of manufacture? The engine is equipped with a Wico PR high tension magneto serial number 6042. I have seen many Fuller & Johnson engine advertisements and not one has a type PR magneto. They all have the common type EK. This magneto also has an armature return spring on the magneto bracket as well as located within. The external spring is mounted on the magneto which is common of the type EK. Is it possible that the PR magneto was added on later or used as a replacement for the EK? This engine was removed from a Wonder cement mixer. The last patent date on the mixer is 1907 with other patents pending. The last patent on the magneto is 1920 with other patents pending. Could this be further evidence of the magneto being added at a later date?

The engine is on a double base with a gasoline tank in the bottom. On the forward exhaust side of the engine one of the mounting lugs is broken off along with part of the corner. I have the piece. Should I weld or braze it back on?

My engine also has two sparkplugs, one between the mounting bolts on the magneto bracket, and one at a 45° angle on top of the head. They are 7/8' thread, not ?' pipe thread.

Why are there two plugs? Were they added as an ignition improvement? Were they added to give more power? Were the two sparkplugs designed to fire simultaneously with the Wico PR magneto? Finally, when did Fuller & Johnson start making hopper-cooled engines of this type? Thanks to the readers in advance and also for the helpful people who answered by questions about the 4 HP Bull Dog in the Jan.-Feb. issue of GEM. All of your letters will be answered.'

'Enclosed is a picture of an oats huller,' writes JOHN ROGOWSKI, Box 354, Kouts, Indiana 46347. He continues, 'I got it a few years ago  and last winter took it all apart and freed it up and straightened the metal. I belted it up to my A. C. 1934 and found that if I would get the oats huller turning 2000 rpm that it does a good job. There is no name on it and I've asked hundreds of people and no one can give me any information. Maybe one of your readers can help me out. I would appreciate it.'

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