Little Pine Route, Box 4 Aitkin, Minnesota, 56431
I was fortunate to purchase parts of two Edwards engines with enough parts to complete one engine and leave a lot of spare parts for future use. I would like to give some information to other collectors and Edwards fans.
The workmanship on the engines looks good, but the engineering is not much to be desired.
Restoring was the normal process: soaking in solvent and driving the pistons out, sandblasting, etc. The rings I got from Starbolt.
The engine is lubricated by two drip oilers. They are adjusted to drop 20 drops of oil while the engine is running. This oils the pistons, the wrist pin and also the connecting rod bearing. This is done by oil dripping from the oiler through a hole in top of the piston, into a small cup built in the connecting rod, from there to the rod bearing through a brass tube. This works most of the time. The rest of the time there are some very worn rod bearings. I installed a grease cup on each rod bearing and left the original lube system intact. The cam gear came with a grease cup.
The main bearings are also inserts. The main bearing caps have only a 3/16 inch hole which the operator is supposed to oil with an oil can. This is good for a very short time before the bearings start to run dry. The main bearing caps have a large cup built into them that would hold several squirts of oil but aren't drilled to the bearing. I drilled mine and put some wool felt in them to hold the oil. The main bearing caps have the bolt holes in the opposite corners so the pressure is not even on the bearing and shaft assembly.
From my two Edwards engines there were three out of four main bearing caps broken. Also one bent crankshaft, one bent rod, and one broken piston when the main insert seized on the crankshaft and broke the main bearing cap. The flywheel runs very close to the pistons.
There seemed to be a choice of low or high tension ignition. Both are mag energized. The low tension ignitors are tripped by the top of the pistons. My engine is high tension. It has a good American Bosch mag. The plugs are model T Ford style ? inch pipe thread.
Both the exhaust and intake valves are mechanically operated. Both valves from each cylinder are operated by one double headed rocker arm. The push rods both push and pull, so there are only two push rods for four valves.
The governor is mounted on the crankshaft. Some of the governor parts are quite flimsy but it does seem to work okay.
This engine is rated at 1? to 6 HP depending on the speed desired, or if it is being operated on one or two cylinders. It also can be operated on kerosene but it doesn't have a starting tank. This is done by squirting gasoline in the priming holes until the engine warms up enough to run on kerosene.
The Edwards engines don't have any method of choking, they are primed to start. For every power rating and speed change the air dampers and needle valves have a different setting.
The mufflers are mounted so part of the exhaust is discharged against the water hopper. This doesn't help with the cooling, and does mess up a paint job.
Both of my Edwards engine blocks had a few good patches of paint on them. It is a close match to the Ford tractor blue.
These engines are started by wrapping a leather strap around the pulley and giving it a heavy pull. There is a stud on the strap that goes into the set screw hole in the pulley.
These engines are a very interesting addition to any collection.
Editor's note: The Zilverbergs sent us a somewhat faded xerox copy of Edwards engine Reference Sheet No. 8. If anyone is interested in receiving a photocopy of this material, we will be happy to send it for $2.00 U.S. funds. Write to Stemgas, PO Box 328, Lancaster, PA 17603.