43138 Road 52 Reedley, California 93654
Carl Bergman, who is a member of EDGE& TA Branch 30 located in southern California, contacted his friend, Don Ross, who is employed as an aerospace engineer, for advice. Ross is most qualified and knowledgeable about removing rust from every kind of old metal, and offered the following formula to Bergman, who in turn presented it to Branch 30 president Jerry Wymore and the rest of the EDGE&TA Branch 30 members.
Several members, who at first were skeptical, experimented with this formula many times and found it to be absolutely workable and effective. EDGE&TA Branch 30 is eager and excited to present this workable formula to all 'Old Engine Lovers' who may have rust removal problems. Our special thanks to engineer Don Ross, Carl Bergman, and president Jerry Wymore for their willingness to share this formula and offer valuable advice to all who may find rust difficult to remove.
With apparatus set up as shown in either Sketch I or Sketch II(15 ampere battery charger, preferred), fill the container (vat) to a desired level with tap water. Plug in or turn on the battery charger, switch to 12 volt output, and note the current flow on the battery charger meter (a sensitive one, we hope). Unless your tap water is extremely hard, the current will indicate 'zero.' (And you thought water was a good conductor, at least when standing in it.) We need a salt or acid solution to serve as an electrolyte, conducting electricity between the two electrodes. Either common table salt or toilet bowl cleaner (crystal type) will serve our purpose very well. Use toilet bowl cleaner if you are likely to splash or wash the salt water in the grass in the backyard. In either case, dissolve a pound in a gallon of water and start to add the solution slowly to the vat water until the current flow becomes 10 to 14 amps. If the current flow becomes excessive for your particular battery charger, add more tap water. After the rusty part has 'cooked' for about an hour, remove, hose off and scrub with steel wool or a wire brush. Note the progress and continue 'cooking' until all rust has been removed-or until the process is obviously pitting or roughing the metal part. If one side of the rusty part becomes derusted early on, turn the part to expose the rust to the positive electrode. When you conclude that the 'cooking' is finished, hose off the part and swab it with a diluted solution of one of the phosphoric acid products. Overall, this is a very cheap and safe- but messy-rust removal process. And it needs more handwork in the form of wire brushing than the other processes require.
To each his own process-and good luck. Whatever you do, keep your mind on reasonable safety!