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1095 Woodmoor Drive, Monument, Colorado 80132

I have enjoyed Gas Engine Magazine for several years. I was born and raised on a central Illinois farm, so I have many memories of Old Iron. My lack of space here at home limits the size of iron I can work on. Our recreation room has been converted into the 'Tired Iron Room.'

I play with Maytags. They are not big, beautiful, or rare. They stink a little and smoke alot, but I like them and think they are almost pretty. They are a nice first engine.

A friend of mine, Glen Mallet, had two Maytags in his shed and told me that if I fixed one for him, I could have the other. How could anyone refuse? I picked out the one I wanted and got it running. I called him and told him I had mine running and would fix his next. A month or so later, his was running. He came over, looked at them, said that they looked and sounded good. Since I had so much fun working on them, he gave them both to me. Thanks, Glen!

Next, I bought a pick-up load of junkers from another friend. I went through these and sorted out the ones that could be made whole. The rest were torn down for parts. Everything was sandblasted and painted.

When reassembling the engines, I found I would have one part on and have to take it off to get the next part on. After partially assembling one engine three or four times, I figured out that a sequential procedure was needed. I thought about making a little manual to sell through GEM's ads (everyone can use a little extra cash), but since I was given my first two Maytags, I thought I would pass on the gift of friendship. Here you will find a manual I made up. I hope it will help some of us part-time old iron nuts.

Assuming you probably tore down your Maytag, cleaned, and painted everything, you now find out you forgot how it goes back together. Follow this manual and things will go together in the right order.

1. Crankcase and crankshaft

A. Remove seal from crankcase #S-298. Do not distort, tap out carefully. Behind the seal, between the crankcase and the bushing, is an oil drain hole that runs from the outer end of the bearing into the crankcase to the fuel jet intake opening. This must be free and clear. Drill out with a #50 drill bit; blow out any debris.

B. Non-taper end of crankshaft goes into the crankcase; reinstall seal. Now remove crankshaft to make sure oil drain hole is clear.

C. Check spiral oil groove on ends of crankshaft; it must be clean and smooth.

D. Check seal on assembly #3967--it must be clean, remove if necessary. Make sure correct shim gasket between crankcase and assembly #3967 is in place. Either #14446, .006 - .009 or #14445, .003 - .005. With crankshaft in place, slide assembly #3967 over taper end of crankshaft. Tighten to 60 - 80 ft. lbs.

E. Crankshaft should spin freely with no end play or up to .002; if too tight, increase shim gasket on assembly #3967.

2. Pistons

A. Take piston with rod and rings in place and insert in crankcase with large slope on piston toward the bottom side of crankcase. Insert cap through #2 piston hole on the other side of the crankcase. Be sure to match the marks on rod and cap. Tighten machine screws on cap. Shaft should turn freely. If play is felt, file cap until snug fit is obtained then ream with 7/8 reamer.

B. Apply grease on cap #2 and on journal. Cap will go in aside of rod #1 on#l side of crankcase. Take finger and place cap on journal and hold in place. With other hand, take piston #2 and insert through #2 opening of case. You can now hold #2 piston tight to journal. Carefully rotate case so rod is on top. Remove fingers and tighten screws. Check play as with #1.

3. Cylinders

A. Inspect rings on pistons, they should be free with no carbon build-up in grooves. Apply light oil to piston and rings.

B. Make sure end gaps on double top rings are separated. Looking at end of piston, gaps should be at 4 & 8 o'clock; this will let gaps miss inlet and exhaust ports. Set bottom ring gap at 2 or 10 o'clock to miss intake port.

C. With rings in proper place, slide cylinder over piston. Make sure cylinder gasket is in place and turned so it does not block intake passage. Cylinder will slide over piston. You will need to help rings compress with screwdriver. Be careful not to rotate rings. If bottom bolts on cylinder were removed, they need to be started in cylinder before it is in place against the crankcase. Tighten bolts opposite each corner. Repeat with cylinder #2.

D. Check that crankshaft still turns freely. It is does not, reverse process one step at a time until shaft turns freely. This will pinpoint the problem.

4. Exhaust Connection

A. Turn crankcase and cylinders with bottom side up. Tapered end of crankshaft should be on your left. Take exhaust pipe S304 and place it on cylinders with end exhaust flange away from you.

B. Gas tank top will not fit if flange is toward you. With exhaust gaskets in place, use four slotted machine screws and tighten.

5. Feed Tube Assembly

A. Hold feed tube assembly #3715 upright with jet tube #14437 on top, strainer on bottom. You should be able to suck air but not able to blow back.

B. Jet can be cleaned with a #72 drill bit. Remove screen from bottom and clean disk check valve. Reassemble and check again.

C. Install with bottom of jet flush with bottom of crankcase. Turn so set screw does not get in slot.

6. Gas Tank Top

A. Install gaskets between crankcase and #S305 gas tank top. Turn crankcase over. Seal both sides of gasket with fuel resistant sealant. Place tank top over feed tube assembly #3715; make sure holes line up so jet could be removed without removing crankcase. Torque bolts tight.

7. Magneto and Mounting Plate

A. Make sure all parts are clean and dry.

B. Check all wires for cracks in insulation and for tight connections. Plug wires should be soldered.

C. Clean all three air gap points on coil; clean with sand paper-they must be free of dirt and rust.

D. Check points for alignment and pits on face; file if necessary.

E. Install breaker cam #14523 over taper end of crankshaft. Arrow should be away from engine, pointing clockwise. Breaker cam should go on without force. Polish inside of cam and outside of crankshaft with #320 grit or finer emery cloth.

F. Thrust washer #14522 goes on the outside of cam. It has keyway that needs to line up with cam.

G. Lay both cam and washer aside and make sure key #14524 will go in crankshaft, long point up and toward crankcase. Check key in cam. It should fit without force. Reinstall cam and washer as above and put in key.

H. Install mounting plate over crankshaft. If it is tight, apply light grease on crankcase. Make sure screw is loose on back side of plate. You might need to insert screwdriver in slot on plate and very gently spread as you start plate on crankcase. As it starts, make sure cam follower on points does not catch on cam. Make sure before you push plate all the way so that groove on back side of plate is toward bottom and fits in tongue on top of gas tank. This is a must as it sets the timing. Tighten screw on back of plate. Apply a little grease on cam follower.

I. Points should be set now. Turn crankshaft until follower is on high point of cam. Set points to .020.

8. Flywheel

A. Put some anti-seize compound on crankshaft. Make sure magnet mounting plates at open end of magnets are free of rust and grease. Slide flywheel on crankshaft; line up keyway; push on until snug.

B. Install V belt pulley next, making sure flat spot on flywheel lines up with flat spot on pulley. Put on lockwasher and nut; tighten to 50 ft. lbs.

9. Starter

A. Install stud pin #14454 (starter pedal shaft) in top of gas tank. This should rotate freely. Install snap ring on end of stud pin next to cylinder.

10. Air Tube

A. Install air tube connection #14438 into crankcase and tighten alien set screw. Check alien set screw on feed tube; they are almost impossible to adjust after starter is in place.

11. Starter

A. Place starter ratchet #S307 on crankshaft. Hole in crankshaft and starter ratchet are tapered; so is pin #12803. Turn crankshaft so larger side of hole is up. Check ratchet for largest of both holes. Put small end of pin in large hole, pin will go almost all the way through it, if holes are lined up right. Tap pin tight, rotate crankshaft and spread pin slightly.

B. Lay engine on side with flywheel down. Apply light oil on each of four balls. Place one ball in each slot on outer edge of ratchet. Install ratchet pinion #5310. This should be greased and turn freely. Secure with large snap ring.

C. Install #S317 starter gear on stub shaft. Connect spring between starter gear and ratchet guard. Remove long bolt from gas tank lid. Slide guard on stub shaft; reinstall long bolt in gas tank lid. Push stud shaft tight against snap ring; push guard against starter pedal and tighten set screw.