Good Hunting to All

ZR-1 Marine engine

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6 Windward Drive, Severna Park, Maryland 21146

Pictured is an unrestored but operating Palmer ZR-1 Marine engine. It has block casting, dated 9-23-43, bore 5?', stroke 6', 143 cubic inches, 7 HP at 700 RPM, weight 425 pounds. The tinier was made by CUNO, restored ZR-1. The ZR-1,2, 3 and 4 were made from 1923 until 1940 or 50.

Pictured is an unrestored but fine running Bulldog, Circa 1909. It was made by the Fairbanks Company, type BD, number B16250, 5 HP, 375 RPM.

Shown is a partially restored 1947 Palmer Brothers, Cos Cob, Ct., ZR-3 Marine engine. The serial number is 3351247, 5? bore, 6' stroke, 429 cubic inches, 1000 pounds, 30 HP at 800 RPM. The engine is not fully reassembled because it is too heavy to move easily.

I have been collecting engines since 1935 when I obtained a Smith Motor Wheel. A Fuller Johnson 1? HP engine number 9970 came next in 1937 and in it went. In the last few years I have concentrated on marine engines. I am partial to the engines of Palmer Brothers of Cos Cob, Connecticut. The Palmer ZR engine made the company the most famous of the early engine makers in my opinion. Their engines were rugged, reliable, and simple to repair. The ZR was made in 1,2,3, and 4 cyl. models. As you can see from the photos, they simply used the basic one 'lung' block and added them to make two, three, or four cyl. models. No reduction gear was needed as the engine only turned up at approximately 700-800 RPM.

The Sears Motorgo is an interesting engine in that it had Model T Ford valves, springs, piston, rings, rods, etc. The timer was by CUNO who seems to have made many of the timers used on early marine one lungers. Apparently the patterns of the Motorgo were used by several different companies or at least marketed under different names with trivial trim differences.

The Lackawanna Model O is a favorite of mine, being two cycle, it will run either way-hence no reverse gear was needed, just a good sense of timing by the operator when to release the spark control button, just before the engine died. If one wasn't careful instead of 'backing down' one would run the dock 'unceremoniously.'

A tip that may be useful to the readers regarding marine engines that have served years in salt water boats or been rescued from salt water. Don't let the block water passages dry out. Dig all the sludge out and then keep a mixture of distilled water and antifreeze in them. If you don't keep the block passages full, the salt in the cast iron will take moisture from the air and cause the surface to slough off. The collection of the sloughed off material in the bottom of the water jacket will harden and expand just like ice, therefore cracking the water jacket. 'Good hunting to all.'