Greyhound tractor


Robert L. Lauson

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23/7/21 Q. I recently acquired a Greyhound tractor. The serial number on the rear housing is 22600 and the engine number is 43536. When was this tractor built, and what are the proper colors? Any information will be appreciated. Robert L. Lauson, 24755 Northlea Dr., South Bend, IN 46619.

A. As you probably know, this tractor was built by Allis-Chalmers, with the biggest difference being that a different top radiator tank casting was used. Obviously the tractor in the photo has 'Greyhound' cast in place. Your tractor was built in 1929, according to the Allis-Chalmers serial number listings.

23/7/22 Q. Can anyone identify the Webster igniter body in the photo? It bears the number 303K12. The bolts are on 2-inch centers and mounts on the engine with three 5/16 inch bolts in a symmetrical pattern. Measured from center to center of the bolts die distance is 2 1/8 inches. John Preston, 2455 Hickory Lawn, Rochester, MI 48063.

A. Our information on Webster magnetos does not include the 303K12 number. Anybody out there who can help?

23/7/23 Q. I take the device in this photo to be part of an old grain mill, but need to have additional information so that I can restore it. Any help whatever will be appreciated. Walter Nieland, 1610 N. West,, Carroll, Iowa 51401.

A. The corrugated rolls appear to be crushing rolls rather than grinding rolls. When used for grinding purposes, roller mills usually have one roll turning faster than the other. But then, what you have may have been used for something else entirely. We don't know, but perhaps one of our readers has seen a similar device.

23/7/24 Q. I would appreciate hearing from anyone with information on a 25 HP engine built by S.M. Jones, Toledo, Ohio; also on a Caille 2 HP marine engine. R.C. Eckert, O.D., 203 E. 6th St., Jasper, IN 47546.

23/7/25 Q. Does anyone know of a source for wiring diagrams on small light plants? I have a Kohler 2A22 and a little Briggs PC-200. In both cases the engines run fine, but someone not understanding them has cobbled up the generator ends. Ray Rylander, 805 E. San Rafael St., Colorado Springs, CO 80903.

A. Wouldn't it be grand if such a book existed! Probably the best bet is to somehow or other locate someone with the specific information, hopefully through this column. If this approach is not successful, then we would suggest someone familiar with motor winding and repair, and preferably someone who might have worked on these units in the past. If we have good copies of the diagrams, we'll try to reproduce them right here in this column for a permanent record of same.

23/7/26 Q. I've located a 5 HP Sta-Rite engine. They are not at all plentiful in our area, and I'm wondering whether they are common in the United States? Additional information on these engines is also needed. N. McWaters, RR 6, Belleville, Ontario, Canada K8N 4Z6.

A. So far as we know, Sta-Rite engines are not commonly seen anywhere. We would suggest them to be fairly scarce. Some of our readers, particularly those in Wisconsin (where the Sta-Rite was built) might be able to supply additional information, proper paint colors, etc.

23/7/27 Q. What is the color and year built of a Stover engine, KA151807? Also a Stover CT-2, s/n TB267118? What is the age of a Briggs 6 volt 'Power Charger', s/n 323007? It looks to be of WWII vintage. D.C. Robie, P.O. Box 414, So. Weymouth, MA 02190.

A. The KA was built 3/7/1923, and the other Stover is listed with a date of 1/30/1940. We can't tell you anything about the Briggs. The KA engine was finished comparable to DuPont Dulux 24166 Brewster green to which some black has been added. This gives a very, very dark Brewster green. Later engines seem to have been somewhat lighter in color, but there is no consistency-no constant shade of green-it seems to have varied through the years.

23/7/28 Q. I'm new to the hobby, and have a question. What is the year and correct color for a McCormick-Deering 1? HP engine, s/n AW65576? Ken DeKam, Box 13, Pinecrest, Clancy, MT 59634.

A. Your engine was built in 1928. We find that PPG #43846 White Motors Green is a comparable match. These engines had no striping, only decals.

23/7/29 Q. Enclosed find three photos of an unusual engine which I think was built in the 1940's. It is horizontal, about 1-1? HP. The filler plug is a cast iron bear that appears to be factory made. An air cooled head is used, along with a water cooled cylinder jacket. The crankshaft is mounted on ball bearings. A rope-pull starter is used. One point on the engine is stamped, 'Pat'd. 4-8-43.' The flywheel bears the number 9V29. The original color is apple green. Could this be a 'Bear-Cat' out of Thomas Engineering Works of Portland, Oregon? Any information will be gratefully received. Blair Davidson, 1826 Via Quinto, Ocean-side, CA 92056.

23/7/30 Q. Do you know if the 1? and 3 HP McCormick-Deering engine originally came out with the same size trucks? What is the color number for these engines? What is the color for the Fairbanks-Morse battery equipt engine with the disk-type flywheels, as pictured on page 165 of American Gas Engines?

A. Quite possibly the 1? and 3 HP engines used the same trucks, although we can't be sure with the information we have on hand. The comparable color match is listed in 23/7/28 above, or DuPont Dulux 93-1863-H Red.


23/2/44 Sattley engine Thanks to all the response to my earlier query, I was able to finish this engine, and submit this photo (RW-1) of the completed project. Many thanks to everyone who helped! J.W. Skutt, 4280 Fairway Drive, Eureka, CA 95501.

I was able to get some parts for these tractors from American Farm Machine. Ted Mack, RR 1, Box 683, Ottertail, MN 56571.

23/4/3 Model A Ford conversion There was a firm in Peru, Indiana that used to specialize in conversion kits to swap engines in autos, trucks, and jeeps. This might be a lead.

23/4/12 Lister engine The correct address is: Lister Engine Co., R.A. Lister & Co, Ltd., Dursley, Gloucestershire, GL11 4 HS England. (The above two items were submitted by Bob Johnson, 514 Brown St., Jackson, MN 56143).

Repairing Mall chain saw tank Tim Fox and I have successfully repaired a number of tanks with Devcon brand 5-minute epoxy or with the liquid plastic used with fibreglass to repair auto bodies and boats.

1. Sandblast the inside if at all possible. If this cannot be done, at least wash it inside with auto brake cleaner to remove all traces of oil. Sandblasting is the guaranteed way to prepare the inside though.

2. Cover all pinholes from the outside with masking tape to seal them. In the case of large holes, wrap thin (about tin can thickness) sheet metal over the missing part of the tank. Hold it tightly in place and seal the edges with masking tape. A thin coating of oil or grease on the tin will keep the epoxy from bonding to it.

3. Mix the epoxy and hardener well and pour it into the tank. Roll the tank around slowly until the entire inside is coated. Prop up the tank so that the epoxy will settle in the worst rusted area.

4. After the epoxy has fully hardened, remove the tape and tin sheet from the tank. Voila! it is done except for a little smoothing on the outside and possible drilling out where the petcock screws in.

We have restored tanks which had holes half as large as your hand and built complete ends for others this way. In the case of large areas like this, we used fibreglass to give the epoxy strength. We put the fibreglass inside where possible. This method has never failed us and some of the tanks are 10 years in service since the repair. Jesse Livingston, Rebel Supply Co., Rt 2, Box 118, Troy, TN 38260.

23/4/34 Cushman engine cooling tanks Charles Foland, RR 3, Box 22, Grant City, MO 64456 also needs information on the size of the cooling tank for an 8 HP Cushman engine. We have DuPont Dulux 93-62713-H green as a comparable color.

22/12/17 Unidentified engine I believe this engine is probably an Olds.

23/4/8 Engine This engine is a Kalamazoo railroad car engine, and I have a manual for it. (The above two responses are from Leonard Spoelman, 3221 Brookshire SE, Grand Rapids, MI 49508).


Regarding the saga of the small steam engine model in recent issues, Mr. N.D. Fay, 4 Shadylane Ave., Northboro, MA 01532 writes: 'The most important difference of a Corliss from a slide valve is that the initial pressure remains constant on a Corliss. A slide valve governs by throttling. A Corliss governs by cutoff. Since the efficiency of a steam engine is a function of the temperature drop across the working cylinder, the Corliss is more efficient because the admission line does not drop with throttling.'

Mr. Arnold L. Teague, 195 Bridge Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 forwards a letter and some photos concerning some recent engine models from his shop:

'The photos contributed by Norman Brockelsby and Eddie Mittelstadt in the April 1988 GEM show fine examples of the creative work they have done. Eddie and Norman were among the very first to make the 1/3 scale Aermotor pumping kit.'

'Photo MM-1 shows an engine put together by welding two Aermotor blocks to form a combustion chamber common to both cylinders. The cranks are synchronized by a train of gears. The fuel is propane, using Leo Fellman's flow control valve. Both the intake and exhaust valves are mechanically operated by rocker arms pivoted in the shaft housings as cast in the Aermotor block and controlled by a single lobe cam attached to the timing gear for a four-stroke cycle.'

'Also included is Photo MM-2, showing an Aermotor set up as a three-way force pump. The old man is doing maintenance work from the ladder in the pit.'

'Photo MM-3 is a ?-scale Reid engine. For several years I have been making models of the results of man's efforts to 'turn the wheel.' Windmills, hot air, steam, and internal combustion engines are included in the list. Internal combustion engines with ignition systems using spark plugs and high tension coils, ignitors and low tension coils, and magnetos, but no hot tube ignition, so the Burns & Horner Engine Co. ad for the Reid got my attention. And, after an informative talk with Harry Horner, I was sure it should be in my collection even though it is larger than I have been making. The order was sent in and shortly, UPS delivered two boxes.'

'Now to find out what we have! As unpacking progressed it became evident that the foundry knew how to make a good-looking casting. Then checking with the plans which had previously arrived, it became evident that the patternmaker and moulder had their work cut out for them to produce the cylinder casting. It will be interesting to see if all those indicated passages show up in the process of machining the block. All appears to be in good order. The plans are clear and in common drafting practice, so the urge to get to work on the project pushes aside other daily maintenance things and work begins.'

'Most machining operations can be performed on any one of a number of machines that either turn the tooling or turn the workpiece. All my models, including the Reid, were machined on a 20-inch Hendy lathe, circa 1900, and a 16-inch drill press.'

'The cast metal turned out to be sound and machined easily, leaving a good finish; no 'diamonds' or voids were found. The prints proved to be complete and accurate. The time span was December 7, 1987 to March 24, 1988; working a few hours nearly every day produced the engine shown in MM-3. During the construction period, much interest was shown by several local collectors. A friend, Ed Hunter, was in the shop often, working on his Aermotor project, and several others contributed lumber for the base, along with some advice of course.'

'Start up time-well, it turned out I didn't know all there was to know about the finer points. Ed was on hand and helping, and it turned out we didn't succeed the first afternoon. A phone call to Harry Horner found him out of town, but partner John Burns called, and offered some suggestions. Both Harry and John are very enthusiastic about their kit and are willing to share experiences in a most helpful way. Next day, and a few minor adjustments, and the engine comes to life. Ed was on hand to see and hear; wife Peggy was called to witness 'our' engine's first run.

'I don't want to imply that the startup problems were in any way due to materials or prints. The model is 'to print' with no modifications except for two small holes in the chimney near the burner to initiate a draft as Harry suggested might be necessary. The problem turned out to be a small amount of a core remnant that had been missed in the cleanup prior to final assembly!'

'If you are looking for an engine kit of high quality, and backed by concerned suppliers, and a real attention-getter, then the Reid might well be up on the list of kits now available to us. The larger size may limit your choice if machine capacity is a factor, but it should not be impossible to interest a friend in a joint project.'

We commend Mr. Teague for this project and many others he has completed in the past few years. Lest ye olde Reflector be accused of sponsoring a 'paid political announcement' here, Mr. Teague's comments are his own, and have not been edited in any way. We strongly encourage others who either are building models or are suppliers of castings to send us details and photos of your experiences so we can present them here in the Reflections column. You no send 'urn, we no can publish 'em!

Domestic engines 'Back in the December 1987 GEM, reference was made to a new kit for building Domestic stovepipe style engines. A model was demonstrated by Mr. Shelly at the Portland, Indiana show.

Two of these models have now been completed by yours truly, and were first shown in Zolfo Springs, Florida on March 2,3,4,5, and 6 of 1988. See the two photos, MM-4 and MM-5, of these models. Garland Jobe, 2114 Alamance Church Road, Greensboro, NC 27406.'

Mr. Jobe is the author of an extensive article entitled 'Model Building', which was published in the June 1988 issue of GEM. We're confident that you will find many useful ideas from Mr. Jobe's presentation.


Thanks to several readers who have forwarded photocopy material the past month. Of particular irterest is a set of photocopies from John Scoville, 4625 C.R. 79, Butler, IN 46721. Mr. Scoville's grandfather bought a 6 HP Ellis engine in 1913, and later that same year traded it in for a 12 HP model which he kept until about 1917 or 1918. John still has all the papers that accompanied the engine, including the invoice of December 10, 1913, which shows that he traded the 6 HP model in on the 12 HP engine for an additional $181.00 in cash, plus a credit of $134.00 for the smaller engine. A 1916 Ellis price list shows the following sizes and prices:

1?HP .....................................$42.00
3 HP ......................................... 79.00
6 HP ........................................ 112.00
9 HP .......................................... 180.00
12 HP ........................................ 285.00
18 HP ....................................... 440.00

These prices included the freight prepaid, plus a 30 day trial and a ten year guarantee.

At another point in the Ellis Instruction Book for 1913, the company states, 'We wish to warn our customers of the extreme importance of using the correct oil for cylinder lubrication of our engines.' Included with new engines was a sample can of Mobiliol Gargoyle 'E'. Ellis noted, 'If you are unable to obtain it in your neighborhood, we can supply you at the following prices, f.o.b. nearest shipping point:

Barrels ..................55? per gallon
Half-barrels.......... 58? per gallon
5-gallon cans ........65? per gallon

We strongly recommend purchasing in original packages.'